Boquete's Many, Many Trails

The small town of Boquete is one of Panama’s most precious scenic gems situated in the highlands with the picturesque Rio Caldera flowing along side the town. The attraction of this simple no frills town nestled in a valley are the countless rolling green hills a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and even for those who enjoy walking at a leisurely pace. Walking has been one of my favorite means of exercise and now however I never seem to tire hiking in Boquete’s stunning natural jungle up in the highlands. Among many of my favorite locations to hike are in the Horqueta area, the Bajo Mono the rainforest area, or hiking in the lower hot springs area of Caldera. Each of these areas has an inherent beauty, continually capturing my interest making each one significant such as; the early morning aromas of spice and pine permeating the air, or the morning dew resting on top of foliage and on beds of fallen leafs, and listening to the trickling sound of the river in the background. This is nature at it's best and what it is all about while I am hiking on the many, many trails of Boquete.
Some trails have an abundance of diverse wild flowers, while others may show off a variety of orchids, or Bromeliads hanging high up from the trees, Heliconias, Bird of Paradise, and sightings of variety of birds such as the Quetzale. The Quetzale is a beautiful bird, which you do not want to miss seeing in March through May. During the month of March is when their breeding season commences - the male, performs the courtship dance, calling out, and loudly singing in order to attract a female. This splendid bird is located in the cloud forest jungle among lush vegetation, in the very moist misty cloud zones such as the Pipeline in Bajo Mono or the Quetzale Trail to name a few. Even in July, the Quetzales have been spotted in the areas mentioned.
My love for walking, ahem let me say exercising began in Chicago; jogging along the trail alongside Lake Michigan in my thirties, then in my late forties, I began a power walk routine, and bicycling along Chicago’s lakefront trails after moving and living in walking distance to the lake. In my fifties, I began walking 10,000 steps and eventually found the amount of steps not very challenging so I began to walk longer. During the winter months when it is to, too cold for that activity and so I would go to the health club just to stay fit. However, I have to say after moving to Boquete I am in better shape and feel healthier than ever.
Subsequently after moving to Boquete, someone mentioned a walking group had formed; I joined it and began hiking these beautiful trails. It took a while for my body to acclimate to the altitude – Chicago is flat land and Boquete well it is much higher and undulating.
Our group meets every Saturday morning at 8:00am - hiking for about a two-hour more or less. I call our outings hikes because well we are in Boquete with some areas being over 1,400 meters or over 4000 feet above sea level and some of the trails even higher. Most of the terrain requires hiking boots for safety since many of the trails are uneven, rocky, with deep gaps, jagged, and loose gravel. For some a walking stick is a big plus it is a balancing tool – I take mine on every hike and love it. The greater part of the trails are on an incline whether hiking up or down hill. Hiking in Boquete may be a challenge for some at first however; your body like mine will acclimate to Boquete’s altitude if you stick with it.
In addition, to Saturday’s walk another two days have been added. Our group on Monday meets at 8am and on Thursday at 8:30am location announced two days prior. Thursday's hike frequently lasting longer about four to five hours sometimes more difficult and for the person who has determination.
Hiking is a great way to exercise, definitely vigorous enough to pump up the heart rate a few notches. Most of the trails are up in the highlands and some are on back dirt roads, where few cars drive. All in all the landscapes, countryside, and views are marvelous – well this is beautiful Boquete after all.
I did some research just to find out how many calories a person can burn while hiking on rough terrain like the Peterson #1 Trail, Horqueta #1, Piedra India Trail, to name a few and this is what I found out. Depending on the intensity (your speed, the terrain, the angle of incline, etc.)a person can burn anywhere from 1000 to 1600 calories in total.
When you are exercising, the number of calories you burn depends upon your weight, the activity you are doing and the intensity level you exercise. Active people become slim and stay slim, because they know that burning calories allows them to eat a balanced normal diet, while enjoying physical activity.
A person with a higher fitness level will probably exercise at a faster rate and therefore burn more calories than someone who does not work as hard. Whatever exercise activity you choose, you should aim to do it for at least 30 minutes and it should leave you slightly breathless at completion. Above all, you should enjoy the exercise so that you will keep repeating it every day.

The hiking trails below may prove to be difficult at first if you do not walk very much or are sedentary. Here are my suggestions to get your body acclimatized; start by walking around town and take short walks that are on a slight incline. Begin your walking routine for a ½-hour the first 4 days then add 15-minute each week until you can walk for an hour. Do 15-minute stretches prior to walking and stretch afterward. Always take water, wear sunscreen, a hat, or cap. When hiking in rainforest areas wear long pants, be prepared, your boots may get muddy and wet. In addition every so often we walk across narrow footbridges that are not steady, balance on rocks to cross-streams or rivers, climb over hefty fallen trees or around boulders. It is a wonderful way to exercise and get back into shape.
I decided to write about Boquete’s off the beaten path “hiking trails” to share them with my audience who may be visiting Boquete and to inform you there are many trails to explore in this wonderful area of Panama. If you want to join us one-day contact me, my email address is on my blog. We are a group of Boquete residents who live here permanently and some who do not, the novice or experienced are welcome to join us.
Below is a list of the trails with a brief description of each.
1. River walk loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour – easy for the active person, a challenge for the inactive. A great hike close to town with good views.
2. Jaramillo Centro loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour. Same as number one but steeper in the beginning then a slight incline going back to town.
3. Cemetery to Volcancito Road, 1 ½ hours for the experienced always on an incline going up, is a challenge for the beginner.
4. Il Pianista, short hike to Señor Ifrain’s property 1 to 2 hours. Trail is a slight incline all the way; balancing on stones and walking across a log is required while crossing a shallow river. Has beautiful landscape and scenery.
5. Cerro Pianista hike into the rain forest from Senor Ifrain’s place 3-4 hours. This is more for the experienced.
6. Volcancito - CEFATI loop, 1 ½-2 hours. Road hike on asphalt in the beginning then on a dirt road, then walk down steep stairs going down to main highway.
7. Alto Jaramillo, hike is up and down on dirt road, gravel road 3 to 4 hours. This area has great views of ocean inlets and Boquete and is challenge for the beginner.
8. Piedra India Rock past Alto Jaramillo, 4-hour hike. Begin hiking downhill to Piedra India then a slight incline thereafter the entire way. It is a long hike, never made it to Piedra India rock.
9. Peterson- #1 Trail is along a river going up to Cerro Buenos Aires 3-4 hours. Great hike on a steady upward incline rough terrain. Definitely, for people who are fit and enjoy mountain climbing. There are many birds, great views, narrow rough terrain.
10. Peterson-#2 Trail is a dirt road passing cattle meadows 3 hours. Easier than number nine but still on an incline with rough terrain in some areas.
11. Bajo Mono Trail AKA Pipeline this is before the Quetzales Trail 3 hours. Steady incline but easy, trail is narrow, wonderful old growth, may hear Howler Monkeys early morning or mid afternoon and we have seen Quetzales in March. At the end of this trail is a beautiful waterfall but you must walk across some rocks to find it.
12. Quetzales Trail 4 hours but did not hike to Cerro Punta. Many birds, beautiful trees, a sheep farm, and the best trout farm along the way. This trail leads to Cerro Punta. Trail is not mark so take your chance when hiking to Cerro Punta. Easy to maneuver.
13. Horqueta Trail 1, 4-5 hours Steep dirt road hike down into this valley then the trail changes upward to a steady incline. You may see and hear Howler Monkeys early, many birds, and orchids. Trail is along coffee fincas. Met the owner of one and he led us further up into hills. Great hike!
14. Horqueta Trail Loop 2.5 hours. Steadily down hill, loose rock, uneven trail until the main asphalt road then hike up to the dirt road to the top again. Take another dirt road to lengthen the hike.
15. La Estancia Loop number one 3 hours. Begin at la Estancia hike down onto dirt road and up onto asphalt road looping back to La Estancia.
16. La Estancia to Palmira Centro 4 hours. Begin at La Estancia walk down dirt road continues on dirt road to Palmira Centro hike back.
17. Las Brisas Boqueteneas Canyon 2 hours. Hiking down the canyon is rough terrain with loose rocks so walking stick is helpful. Then hike along the river, somewhat easy, go swimming. This hike trail can take you to Potrerillos.
18. Potrerillos from Las Brisas canyon 4.5 hours. Hike from Las Brisas to Potrerillos and back along dirt roads very seldom used.
19. Caldera hike begins along river to new Hot Springs “Mi Abuela” 4.5 hours. Hike on a dirt road it is an easy hike but is very lengthy and hot in the summer. At the end of hike, soak your body in the Caldera Hot Springs or go for a swim in the river.
20. Palo Alto Road to Canopy Tree and beyond into rainforest area 4.5 hours hike. Begin at the “Springs” walk on road which is at a slight incline all the way. Once you reach Canopy Tree walk across river on a footbridge. This is a wonderful rainforest hike; narrow trail on a steady upward incline, soggy, and slippery in areas walking is helpful.
21. Horse Trail in the Santa Lucia area - beautiful trail with many pine trees. Few cars travel on this road it is a 2.5 hours hike.

I am looking at this list of trails and thinking WOW! Not realizing until this writing the many trails we have hiked since we began. It certainly has been, without a doubt a most fantastic, terrific, exhilarating experience, and activity exploring new hiking trails and being able to share them with you. During the rainy season alternate routes may be hiked.

Hope you join us on Saturday, Monday, or Thursday.

See you on the happy trails of Boquete!

All the photos on my blog were taken by me while hiking on some of the beautiful trails mentioned above. See more on my flickr site at,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jerechica_in_boquete

Explore. Dream. Discover.

Hiking From Boquete to Puerto Robalo, Bocas del Toro

There are various ways when traveling to Bocas Del Toro by plane, car, bus, cycle, or hiking. We visited Bocas with my family back in March deciding to drive and had a great time visiting all the tourist sites. However, this blog will not be about my trip to Bocas but instead I will write about my next-door neighbor and his adventurous and I must emphasize again adventurous hike to Bocas.
I interviewed Remi (my next-door neighbor) sensing it would an interesting article about what one might expect while hiking to Bocas should any of my readers decide to hike there. Here is the a brief run-down on Remi, he is from France, about my age, keeps physically fit by playing squash, hiking, cycles, swims, the ideal candidate in my book for hiking to Bocas in two and a half days. Did I say two and a half days? Most people hike for three to four days to Bocas.
Two weeks prior to the Bocas hike, his approach of getting into shape, he decided it was time to hike the Volcan Baru. With a view of the Volcan Baru from his living room each day for the past two years, Remi has visualized climbing to the top. He finally had enough of this vision talked two friends into hiking with him. It took them five hours to hike to the top and four hours downhill. While hiking to Volcan Baru would be an interesting blog story, it is not part of this story at this time.
Soon after the Volcan Baru hike, nothing would hold Remi back from hiking to Bocas, it was another imminent challenge he continually thought about repeatedly for over a year. Here is his story regarding the “Trek to Bocas.”
"I viewed hiking to Bocas a challenge knowing it would be tough at my age but I had to do it now and knew I could not wait another year, I am not getting any younger it would have to be now or never. Two others accompanied me on this hike another Frenchman, and a Panamanian who was our guide. Our destination would be Puerto Robalo and we decided to make it there in the best possible time."
"Our journey began at 6:30am on Cerro Pianista hiking for 13 hours the first day. We packed lightly since you do not want to tire so packing just the essentials was important. One has to pack food because of course there are no restaurants. In the evening, the resting places where we would camp for the night had a fire going so it was possible to boil water and cook up something simple. I had packets of instant Asian soup with noodles because they are lightweight, easy to cook for my evening meal, the fruits, energy bars I ate during the day, and packed purified water tablets. Water is a necessity when hiking throughout the day I consumed about 2 liters and a half daily. We would take water from the fresh streams along the way filling our bottles and use the tablets to purify the water".

"Expect rustic accommodations on the hike to Bocas. On day one – the hut we arrived at was our shelter for the night. It had wooden plank beds without a mattress. I threw all my clothes on the planks using them as a mattress. On day two – we hiked twelve hours, and ended our day at Anthony Finca, we did have a mattress though on the floor, it had bed sheets, a pillow, blanket, and they even boiled water for my soup all for $5.00. It was worth it and a luxury! Washing in the evening was nearly impossible and so we waited until the morning’s trek to approach a stream where we could bathe".
"We began each day around 6:30am. We did not see many people on our first day just locals cleaning up paths with their machetes. On our second day, we met a few children who asked our guide if we wanted any help. Not much interaction or encounter with locals or other hikers".
"The terrain on the first two days was in the highlands where nearly everyone raises cattle consequently, we had to trudge through deep cattle trenches that at times were more than three meters deep of thick muddy sludge, plodding through these trenches knee-deep. We crossed rivers with cable lines 30 meters wide with two cable lines on top and one cable line on the bottom. It was a balancing act walking, holding onto the lines trying not to fall into the river, and as a result, though minor, I lost my hiking stick while walking on the cable. The highland terrain is up and down through numerous valleys, crossing the same winding river 20 times, and on a multitude of occasions crossed deep areas of water that sometimes came up to our thighs. The upshot of this our boots became waterlogged and as a result, I got three to four blisters on both feet and I lost a few toenails".
"The hike on the third and final day lasted six hours. On this day, we hiked out of the highlands finding the terrain flat, farming with the planting of crops, more populated with Ngäbe living along the river, and walking along the trail. Finally, arriving in Puerto Robalo, I waited for the bus, and rode it to Gualaca".

I asked Remi if he found the hike to Bocas difficult. He responded “yes,” and asked him why."I thought climbing the Volcan Baru would be the toughest but on a scale 5-10 the Volcan Baru is an 8 and Bocas is a 9.5. I found hiking across the Comarca Territory more of a military hike because of the terrain. I lost 6 kilos/13 pounds on the two and half day hike from Boquete to Puerto Robalo, Bocas. I feel good about losing the weight because I wanted to anyway. Anyone eager to losing weight hike to Bocas! The trek to Bocas was beyond my expectation knowing it would be a long hike I assumed it might not be difficult and as a result, it turned out to be a real jungle hike. Nonetheless, I have to say I would not repeat it. The locals do this everyday without much of a problem but then they are used to the terrain. I suggest having a good guide, the best are the Ngäbe, but they are difficult to find. In addition, there is neither a signal nor medical help in close proximity".
"My next challenge in Panama would be to hike in the Darién. It may not be as much of a challenge as Bocas and at this time cannot imagine it would be any tougher but then I do not know. We will see when the time arrives".

Thank you Remi for letting me interview you and for sharing your “Trek to Bocas” experience with my readers. I commend you for continually venturing out and exploring beautiful Panama.
We picked up Remi after receiving his call as we had planned prior to his trek. I have learned while living in Panama which is almost two years friends are very central to one’s life when living abroad, I mean “good friends” the sort of person you can rely on. Our community of expats here in Boquete is tight; we have a communication network that is essential to the well-being of everyone.
I hope this article is of help to anyone interested in hiking from Boquete to Bocas. By the way, Remi only took along one small pack back. In addition, there are guides in Boquete who for a fee will be your guide on this trek. I must emphasize it is important and a must to hire a guide for your Trek to Bocas. Remember to Explore * Dream * Discover.

Hiking LOS PUEBLOS MANCOMUNADOS -"The People of the Clouds"

The indigenous people of this region in Oaxaca, the Zapotecos, traditionally have a strong bond with their natural environment. The “lord of the mountains”, a Zapotec deity known as Guzio, is said to live within the Sierra Norte, and to take care of the mountain people. Creating this ecotourism venture, thereby reducing the impacts of other forest dependent industries, is one way that the Zapotec people can take care of their

environment.
In the 1990’s, while visiting Oaxaca we decided to go for a day trip hiking and hired a guide up into the Sierra Norte. The village we rode to appeared to be the highest; it may have been San Antonio Cuajimolyas. At the time, the town representative mentioned an ecotourism project was just in the beginning stages providing protection and preservation for the nature system in a sustainable way. The Zapoteco people of the Sierra Norte live from their forests and mineral resources.

After returning years later to Oaxaca, it was great to see their project and dream had turned into a very successful excellent ecotourism program. The Zapotec terrain offers unique natural beauty and the local communities share a common cultural legacy of care and respect for their surroundings. Hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking tours in this beautiful region are between 1 and 5 days, leaving from Oaxaca City. We chose Expediciones Sierra Norte Oaxaca an ecotourism program connected to the seven villages for our hiking excursion. It is a very well run organization communicating daily to the villages in the ecoturism office. The villages themselves are mostly simple but picturesque places, and have unique relics of local history or culture to show off. The hikes are grade level one, two, and three mostly through rocky trails,

some being the old camino real roads and back dirt roads.

In the villages there is a strong sense of community, and in each town we visited, it was evident how residents had come together to advance the project. In Cuajimoloyas, my guide explained he was not paid for his work ( as all the guides), but that it was his community service for the town -something required of all the men. He said he would work for a year and then go back to raising corn and beans, another resident would take his place.
The Pueblo Mancomunados (Commonwealth of Villages) are eight remote Zapotec villages in the thickly forested highlands north of the Valle de Tlacolula in Oaxaca. For centuries in a unique form of cooperation, the villages have pooled the natural resources of their 290-sq-km-territory, which include extensive pine and oak forests.

The cabanas: Each of the towns has different lodging -- on arriving in each place, a local guide will show you where they are -- but in general, visitors choose between staying in a room with several bunk beds in the tourist lodge (aprox. $12 per person) or renting a private cabin that sleeps up to four people ($36 for the cabin). Rates are identical throughout the region. Both the private cabins and the lodges have bathrooms with hot water. We spent our nights in local community hostels as an alternative to camping in the forest.
Each town has one or two simple restaurants, either a storefront establishment or a resident's kitchen. On arrival, guides will let you know what your options are. Most meals, costing up tot $4 per person, consist of local staples, such as quesadillas; tortillas with beans, cheese and avocado; chicken, beef, or trout. A lot depends on how large the town. Restaurants sell cold soda and beer ($1). Each town also have a simple local store where you can buy bottled water, sodas, beer, and snacks.

The tours are designed to match your interests; offering a selection of routes from easy for families to large expeditions for the more demanding hikers and cyclists. Wherever you decide to adventure to, you will discover the beauty of a rare natural environment located in the middle of our modern world.
Sierra Norte has an altitude between 2000 and 3100 meters (6,560 and 10,170 feet) above the dry and hot central valleys, a range of unique and diverse ecosystems: seven of the nine types of vegetation existing in Mexico are here.

The villages we hiked were - day one 15.7 kms to Latuvi, day two 10.9 kms to La Nevera, day three 8.2 kms to Benito Juarez, day four 6.6 kms to Cuajimoloyas.
Expediciones Sierra Norte provided trained local guides for each day of our excursion, it was an extra cost but well worth it. Our hike began in Cuajimoloyas around 10am ending in Latuvi, hiking 15.7 kms or 9.8 miles. We rested only on one occasion for 20-minutes at Mirador Xi-Nudaa a lookout point situated at 3,100 meters above sea level considered sacred according to Zapotec legend. It rained on and off that day and by the time we arrived in Latuvi we were tired, our clothes damp, and it had turned colder. It was wonderful to see the cabanas very well kept. As soon as we purchased some firewood and after our guide got it going, we started feeling warm in our cozy cabana. At this time of year, the Sierra Norte can be become chilly. However, since a storm had hit the coastline rain came to this area and unfortunately, for us, it drizzled on the four days we hike. The guide mentioned the best time of the year to visit the Sierra Norte is in March, April, and May. Even so, hiking through peaceful the pine Forest Mountains and grassy meadows dotted with giant, prehistoric-looking cacti, alongside knowledgeable local guides who know all about the plants, wildlife, and ecology of the sierras was an awesome experience.

Cuajimoloyas holds a

mushroom festival around July or August at the beginning of the rainy season. After seeing all the varieties of mushroom along the hike I can understand why. Here a few that I found to be interesting.

Temazcal The last evening in our Mancomunados journey ended with a “Temazcal” in the village of Cuajimoloyas to relieve our aching and tired bodies.

Here is brief rundown on the Temazcal. Temazcal is an Aztec name for the actual hut that is used. The word temazcal comes from Nahuatl (nah-wah-tl: The Aztec language) words temaz, to bathe, and calli, house. Stone or adobe is the preferred materials of which to build the Temazcal. The door is quite small and low for the obvious reason of loss of heat as well as for the more symbolic role that it plays --re-entry into the womb.
The Temazcal is an ancient ritual steam bath. Many Mesoamerican cultures such as the Aztecs, and the Maya, would have steam baths to seek vision, blessings, purification, or to enter a trance state to commune with the gods and their ancestors. In ancient Mesoamerica, it was used as part of a curative ceremony thought to purify the body after exertion such as after a battle or a ceremonial ball game.
Once the fire has been burning long enough, water is put on the hot stones (sometimes with herbs) to create steam. The Temazcal is normally constructed from volcanic rock and cement. To produce the heat, volcanic stones are heated (volcanic stones are safe because they do not explode from the temperature) it is then placed in a pit in the Temazcal, located in the center or near a wall. The Temazcalera does the 'leafing', where the bather is gently beaten with herbal branches as she continues to throw hot water onto the hot rocks to create a blast of steam. After resting and sweating for sometime, I received the most relaxing and much needed deep tissue massage.

After our Temazcal we were off to eat freshly caught trout ordered by our first guide, Vidal. It was deliciously cooked to perfection and a great way to end this portion of our journey. I am so very thankful for my physical strength to have been able to hike through the Mancomunados and meet the very kind and hospitable Zapotecos “The Cloud People giving thanks to our five guides Vidal, Manuel, Salvador, Salomon, and Faustino. Another dream comes true. Explore - Dream - Discover

Back in Oaxaca for one night. Night life around the Zocalo.

The journey continues - next top Puerto Escondido on the Pacific Coast in Southern Oaxaca.