Boquete's Many, Many Trails

The small town of Boquete is one of Panama’s most precious scenic gems situated in the highlands with the picturesque Rio Caldera flowing along side the town. The attraction of this simple no frills town nestled in a valley are the countless rolling green hills a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and even for those who enjoy walking at a leisurely pace. Walking has been one of my favorite means of exercise and now however I never seem to tire hiking in Boquete’s stunning natural jungle up in the highlands. Among many of my favorite locations to hike are in the Horqueta area, the Bajo Mono the rainforest area, or hiking in the lower hot springs area of Caldera. Each of these areas has an inherent beauty, continually capturing my interest making each one significant such as; the early morning aromas of spice and pine permeating the air, or the morning dew resting on top of foliage and on beds of fallen leafs, and listening to the trickling sound of the river in the background. This is nature at it's best and what it is all about while I am hiking on the many, many trails of Boquete.
Some trails have an abundance of diverse wild flowers, while others may show off a variety of orchids, or Bromeliads hanging high up from the trees, Heliconias, Bird of Paradise, and sightings of variety of birds such as the Quetzale. The Quetzale is a beautiful bird, which you do not want to miss seeing in March through May. During the month of March is when their breeding season commences - the male, performs the courtship dance, calling out, and loudly singing in order to attract a female. This splendid bird is located in the cloud forest jungle among lush vegetation, in the very moist misty cloud zones such as the Pipeline in Bajo Mono or the Quetzale Trail to name a few. Even in July, the Quetzales have been spotted in the areas mentioned.
My love for walking, ahem let me say exercising began in Chicago; jogging along the trail alongside Lake Michigan in my thirties, then in my late forties, I began a power walk routine, and bicycling along Chicago’s lakefront trails after moving and living in walking distance to the lake. In my fifties, I began walking 10,000 steps and eventually found the amount of steps not very challenging so I began to walk longer. During the winter months when it is to, too cold for that activity and so I would go to the health club just to stay fit. However, I have to say after moving to Boquete I am in better shape and feel healthier than ever.
Subsequently after moving to Boquete, someone mentioned a walking group had formed; I joined it and began hiking these beautiful trails. It took a while for my body to acclimate to the altitude – Chicago is flat land and Boquete well it is much higher and undulating.
Our group meets every Saturday morning at 8:00am - hiking for about a two-hour more or less. I call our outings hikes because well we are in Boquete with some areas being over 1,400 meters or over 4000 feet above sea level and some of the trails even higher. Most of the terrain requires hiking boots for safety since many of the trails are uneven, rocky, with deep gaps, jagged, and loose gravel. For some a walking stick is a big plus it is a balancing tool – I take mine on every hike and love it. The greater part of the trails are on an incline whether hiking up or down hill. Hiking in Boquete may be a challenge for some at first however; your body like mine will acclimate to Boquete’s altitude if you stick with it.
In addition, to Saturday’s walk another two days have been added. Our group on Monday meets at 8am and on Thursday at 8:30am location announced two days prior. Thursday's hike frequently lasting longer about four to five hours sometimes more difficult and for the person who has determination.
Hiking is a great way to exercise, definitely vigorous enough to pump up the heart rate a few notches. Most of the trails are up in the highlands and some are on back dirt roads, where few cars drive. All in all the landscapes, countryside, and views are marvelous – well this is beautiful Boquete after all.
I did some research just to find out how many calories a person can burn while hiking on rough terrain like the Peterson #1 Trail, Horqueta #1, Piedra India Trail, to name a few and this is what I found out. Depending on the intensity (your speed, the terrain, the angle of incline, etc.)a person can burn anywhere from 1000 to 1600 calories in total.
When you are exercising, the number of calories you burn depends upon your weight, the activity you are doing and the intensity level you exercise. Active people become slim and stay slim, because they know that burning calories allows them to eat a balanced normal diet, while enjoying physical activity.
A person with a higher fitness level will probably exercise at a faster rate and therefore burn more calories than someone who does not work as hard. Whatever exercise activity you choose, you should aim to do it for at least 30 minutes and it should leave you slightly breathless at completion. Above all, you should enjoy the exercise so that you will keep repeating it every day.

The hiking trails below may prove to be difficult at first if you do not walk very much or are sedentary. Here are my suggestions to get your body acclimatized; start by walking around town and take short walks that are on a slight incline. Begin your walking routine for a ½-hour the first 4 days then add 15-minute each week until you can walk for an hour. Do 15-minute stretches prior to walking and stretch afterward. Always take water, wear sunscreen, a hat, or cap. When hiking in rainforest areas wear long pants, be prepared, your boots may get muddy and wet. In addition every so often we walk across narrow footbridges that are not steady, balance on rocks to cross-streams or rivers, climb over hefty fallen trees or around boulders. It is a wonderful way to exercise and get back into shape.
I decided to write about Boquete’s off the beaten path “hiking trails” to share them with my audience who may be visiting Boquete and to inform you there are many trails to explore in this wonderful area of Panama. If you want to join us one-day contact me, my email address is on my blog. We are a group of Boquete residents who live here permanently and some who do not, the novice or experienced are welcome to join us.
Below is a list of the trails with a brief description of each.
1. River walk loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour – easy for the active person, a challenge for the inactive. A great hike close to town with good views.
2. Jaramillo Centro loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour. Same as number one but steeper in the beginning then a slight incline going back to town.
3. Cemetery to Volcancito Road, 1 ½ hours for the experienced always on an incline going up, is a challenge for the beginner.
4. Il Pianista, short hike to Señor Ifrain’s property 1 to 2 hours. Trail is a slight incline all the way; balancing on stones and walking across a log is required while crossing a shallow river. Has beautiful landscape and scenery.
5. Cerro Pianista hike into the rain forest from Senor Ifrain’s place 3-4 hours. This is more for the experienced.
6. Volcancito - CEFATI loop, 1 ½-2 hours. Road hike on asphalt in the beginning then on a dirt road, then walk down steep stairs going down to main highway.
7. Alto Jaramillo, hike is up and down on dirt road, gravel road 3 to 4 hours. This area has great views of ocean inlets and Boquete and is challenge for the beginner.
8. Piedra India Rock past Alto Jaramillo, 4-hour hike. Begin hiking downhill to Piedra India then a slight incline thereafter the entire way. It is a long hike, never made it to Piedra India rock.
9. Peterson- #1 Trail is along a river going up to Cerro Buenos Aires 3-4 hours. Great hike on a steady upward incline rough terrain. Definitely, for people who are fit and enjoy mountain climbing. There are many birds, great views, narrow rough terrain.
10. Peterson-#2 Trail is a dirt road passing cattle meadows 3 hours. Easier than number nine but still on an incline with rough terrain in some areas.
11. Bajo Mono Trail AKA Pipeline this is before the Quetzales Trail 3 hours. Steady incline but easy, trail is narrow, wonderful old growth, may hear Howler Monkeys early morning or mid afternoon and we have seen Quetzales in March. At the end of this trail is a beautiful waterfall but you must walk across some rocks to find it.
12. Quetzales Trail 4 hours but did not hike to Cerro Punta. Many birds, beautiful trees, a sheep farm, and the best trout farm along the way. This trail leads to Cerro Punta. Trail is not mark so take your chance when hiking to Cerro Punta. Easy to maneuver.
13. Horqueta Trail 1, 4-5 hours Steep dirt road hike down into this valley then the trail changes upward to a steady incline. You may see and hear Howler Monkeys early, many birds, and orchids. Trail is along coffee fincas. Met the owner of one and he led us further up into hills. Great hike!
14. Horqueta Trail Loop 2.5 hours. Steadily down hill, loose rock, uneven trail until the main asphalt road then hike up to the dirt road to the top again. Take another dirt road to lengthen the hike.
15. La Estancia Loop number one 3 hours. Begin at la Estancia hike down onto dirt road and up onto asphalt road looping back to La Estancia.
16. La Estancia to Palmira Centro 4 hours. Begin at La Estancia walk down dirt road continues on dirt road to Palmira Centro hike back.
17. Las Brisas Boqueteneas Canyon 2 hours. Hiking down the canyon is rough terrain with loose rocks so walking stick is helpful. Then hike along the river, somewhat easy, go swimming. This hike trail can take you to Potrerillos.
18. Potrerillos from Las Brisas canyon 4.5 hours. Hike from Las Brisas to Potrerillos and back along dirt roads very seldom used.
19. Caldera hike begins along river to new Hot Springs “Mi Abuela” 4.5 hours. Hike on a dirt road it is an easy hike but is very lengthy and hot in the summer. At the end of hike, soak your body in the Caldera Hot Springs or go for a swim in the river.
20. Palo Alto Road to Canopy Tree and beyond into rainforest area 4.5 hours hike. Begin at the “Springs” walk on road which is at a slight incline all the way. Once you reach Canopy Tree walk across river on a footbridge. This is a wonderful rainforest hike; narrow trail on a steady upward incline, soggy, and slippery in areas walking is helpful.
21. Horse Trail in the Santa Lucia area - beautiful trail with many pine trees. Few cars travel on this road it is a 2.5 hours hike.

I am looking at this list of trails and thinking WOW! Not realizing until this writing the many trails we have hiked since we began. It certainly has been, without a doubt a most fantastic, terrific, exhilarating experience, and activity exploring new hiking trails and being able to share them with you. During the rainy season alternate routes may be hiked.

Hope you join us on Saturday, Monday, or Thursday.

See you on the happy trails of Boquete!

All the photos on my blog were taken by me while hiking on some of the beautiful trails mentioned above. See more on my flickr site at,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jerechica_in_boquete

Explore. Dream. Discover.

Hiking in the Ngäbe-Buglé Comarca and Then Some..

For months we had discussed a planned group-hiking trip into the steep hills on the Ngäbe-Buglé Comarca area near Las Lajas but thought we would might need a guide and do some research about this area prior. A Comarca is the territory of the Ngäbe-Buglé one of the seven indigenous groups in Panama.
-While hiking the Horqueta area in Boquete we met young man named Agustin who is Ngäbe-Buglé. Being interested in hiking the area around San Felix we informed Agustin of our interest in their culture and if there would be an activity during our hiking expedition. He mentioned a “feria” (festival) sometime in the middle of March. One week before our hike I was informed the feria would be a traditional dance not far from the village of Hato Corotú on Cerro Piedra. By the way cerro means hill in Spanish.
-So just a few days before the group hike our friend Remi and I embarked on a day trip to San Felix to acquire more information and visit the Jesuit Mission I had read about on the Internet.

-I am glad we visited the mission it gave us the information we were seeking. Plus we visited Hato Chami located further inland from San Felix. It is a very dry area with not many trees and the town on the day we visited was holding some sort of town meeting with Peace Corp volunteers. Graffiti with "no a la mina" is sprayed in many different along buildings on the road to Hato Chami more about this later. There are many Peace Corp volunteers in the Comarca as I later find out. We found three to five in Cerro Iglesia during out trip.
-On Thursday, our group of eight plus our guide Agustin began the trip from Boquete our first stop would be Hato Corotú this is Agustin's village. A four-wheel drive is necessary if you ever want to drive into this area or for that matter any of the Comarca roads. Roads are dirt with rocks and deep crevices nevertheless; it is a beautiful drive into Hato Corotú with very green steep hills, banana trees, and many toads surround the area at night.
-We begin hiking for about three hours starting at 3pm and it was a steady uphill hike. Even at three in the afternoon, the sun was extremely hot beating down on me and felt as though the sun was only inches above me. My body overheated it was a first for me and I had to stop and rest for 20 minutes to cool my body temperature, I continued arriving at a school where the others in our group resting a few minutes again and continued hiking until arriving to the top of Cerro Piedra (Stone Hill) our destination for the dance festival. Was it worth it, my answer is without doubt yes! The reason being I enjoy hiking and get a buzz!

-Cerro Piedra is a secluded eerie, mystifying, but peaceful place. Arriving around 6pm we enter between two huge boulders, with two young Ngäbe-Buglé men at the entry and pay our B/1.00 entry fee. We see more boulders surrounding this hill and as we walk around I notice very little sunshine shines through the boulders and trees. We are told that many, many years ago, the caves were a hiding hang-out from the enemy.
-We met Yolanda, Agustin’s wife and their children all very happy to see us. Agustin had mentioned to the village Gringos would be visiting the feria. However, as usual, it did not start on time and it was approaching dark so we decided it was time to depart. Before our departure, the children wanted their photo taken after noticing, they could see what they looked like on my Canon Power Shot camera, so of course I shot many photos. Fortunately we all brought flashlights for our short walk down Cerro Piedra we definitely needed to see where we walking.
-We booked several nights in Las Lajas Resort Hotel; it was most unquestionably a splendid relief after our day hike up Cerro Piedra I was looking forward to a swim in the pool, showering, a delicious cold drink, and dinner.

-Fortunately, for us even arriving a little after nine the restaurant was still serving dinner. We decide that evening a long walk along the beach would be appropriate for the following morning and a day in San Felix.

-The next day after our visit to San Felix my friends play a game of Boule/Pétanque. The French pronunciation: [petɑ̃ːk]) Boules (French IPA: [bul]/ the goal is, while standing with the feet together in a small circle, to throw hollow metal balls as close as possible to a small wooden ball called a cochonnet (literally "piglet") or jack. It is sometimes called a bouchon (literally "cork") or le petit ("the small one"). Normally played on hard dirt or gravel, but can also be played on grass or other surfaces. Soft sandy beaches are not suitable. Similar games are bocce and bowls.

The Game of Balseria

-The summer is ending, the rains are coming, traditions call for it, people want it, and the time was ripe for a Balseria. We were curious about the “Balseria” festival on Cerro Iglesia and through some discussion decided to visit this place.
-We finally find Cerro Iglesia through asking many in the surrounding area. As we leave the car, we meet up with several men who are going to the Balseria and ask if they can show us where it is being held. They respond and we follow them for about a half hour until we arrive - however during our walk we hear the horns, whistles blowing, and shouting. During the whole festival, people will be making as much noise as possible from homemade contraptions (anything from cow horns to PVC whistles to turtle shells).
--Balseria is a very special festival in the Ngäbe-Buglé culture. I understand it began when one family would invite another during good harvest years. They would share their food or else it would go bad. Nowadays, it is a large gathering of people from all over. People come to drink, fight, and compete with other indian communities. There are also those who wear feathers in their hats or hunters who have animals in their back to show their success. A Balseria lasts for about four days, Chicha Fuerte (strong fermented juice) is consumed by men and women. Made from fermented corn; the taste is sweet but has LOTS of alcohol in it. People drink the whole time and some get very, very drunk.
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Here is a brief description of a “Balseria” festival and a few photographs. It is a party in where men demonstrate strength in the calves by hitting with rafts a long (round timber) piece of balsa wood cut in five-foot lengths. Another stands his ground while a balsa-thrower may skip in close, circling the target. The balsa-dodger might tease or blow a whistle. The thrower raises his arm lifting the balsa high, he is only to hurl between knee and ankle. The dodger jumps like a dancer. Sometimes it hits the dodger sometimes it misses. However, when the dodger is struck it hits hard and OUCH, it hurts, I decided after watching several men fall on their side. In addition, bare-knuckle fighting takes place a good way to mangle a handsome face and I found it too taxing to watch.
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I had by no means ever seen such a spectacle and was in awe at attending this ritual where there were over 500 both Ngäbe-Buglé adults and children at this festival. As we walked around I notice a man with a very bloody face, I assumed he must have been fist fighting. Activity is everywhere as I turn here or turn there groups of Ngäbe-Buglé surround the balsa game and the bare-knuckle fighting matches where the men bang heads a lot during their session. I literally have to be aware of my gaze or surprise look on my face at what I am seeing as, I say myself "Jere close your mouth and do not look so surprised" this is what I tell myself.

-At a distance, I hear drum sounds it catches my attention, I am amused, entertained and as usual join the dance. One man asks if, I would like some ChiCha Fuerte, I decline by responding in Spanish “I do not need ChiCha to dance” and so we dance.

-Afterward awhile it is time to leave and begin our long trek back to the car - we enjoy a cold beer while resting a bit and head back to Boquete.







I am acknowledging Edward Satterblom for taking a few of these photos and letting me post them here. His photograpghs are showing the art of Balseria, yours truly dancing, and the knuckle-fight between the two guys without a shirt. -If you have a chance to visit a Comarca, it is worth the trip and a chance to learn more about Panama’s culture, people, customs, and rituals. Explore - Dream - Discover

-If you are interested in reading more about the town of San Felix and the Ngäbe-Buglé’s history, their struggle even today I have added additional information below.

Happy Birding at Alouatta Lodge

Waking up at 4:30 a.m. and having to get out of bed no matter how exciting the day - is something I never relish doing. However, once I crawl out of bed and sip a good cup of Boquete coffee I am ready to start the new day.

I was excited about finally being able to visit an area very close to the flat-topped mesa, which we have noticed repeatedly, along the Pan-American Highway just a short distance outside of David on the way to Panama City. You know the one the flat-topped mountain when during the rainy season you can see a large waterfall flowing down from the mesa. Our destination that morning to visit the Alouatta Lodge; it sits on the side of a mountain in the midst of the plains and forests of Chorcha on La Mesa de Chorcha Panama’s only flat-topped mountain and located high on the side of Cerro del Monte, overlooking the Chiriqui lagoon and islands.

Steven and Michelle Walker the proprietors were our gracious hosts along with their two children Garret and Rebecca. They have lived here for about four years making this remote area their home, Eco Resort, and an animal rescue mission.

Alouatta comes from the Latin name alouatta palliata for the species Mantled Howler Monkey; with many living in the area. International Union for Conservation of Nature believes that, this population will decline by up to 60% over the next 30 years endangers the species. Threats to the species include habitat loss, hunting, and capture as pets.

We broke up into three groups. As we begin walking along the trail; we hear the sounds of the Mantled Howler Monkey, they are high up in the trees calling out to each other upset by our invasion onto their turf. The Mantled Howler gets the name "howler" from the calls made by the males, particularly at dawn and dusk, but also in response to disturbances. The calls consist of grunts and repeated roars that can last for four to five seconds each. The Howlers finally settle down perhaps realizing we are harmless. Our group disappointed for not being able to see many birds but then did enjoy the hiking through the dense vegetation.

At the end, of the hike we ate a scrumptious lunch the Walkers had prepared, socializing, meeting several of their rescued Mantled Howler Monkeys, and captivated by interacting with Yahoo including two other six-month-old Howlers. Steven points out the large teak fincas dotting the area, he finds this very disappointing.

Unfortunately, deforestation is taking place globally in rainforest areas, taking away much of the natural environment by creating an inhospitable living arrangement for wild life such as the Howler Monkey.

This is a great day trip; I highly recommend it - the entrance fee is five dollars per person. There are five marked trails from easy walking along the river to difficult, partly up the mountain. We left Boquete at 5:15a.m arriving at Alouatta Lodge about one and half hour later.

A four-wheel drive gets you up the road off the highway to their place. Here are directions to the Alouatta Lodge: from David, on the Pan-American Highway towards Panama City, pass the Bocas del Toro turn off. Continue until you reach the little town of La Pita, look to your left, and see the big waterfall on the side of the flat top mountain, as you pass the waterfall you will come to a long straight downhill run. On the highway, there is a bridge at the bottom about 500m. Further, on, you will pass a farm called LOS VUELTAS on the right side of the road; just past it on the left side of the road, a sign reads Prodec turn onto to this dirt road. The road to Alouatta Lodge is an all dirt and rocky drive up the mountain for 3km, the gate is located on the left side of the road, you cannot miss the gate it has many monkeys on it.

Click onto their website, http://www.alouattalodge.com/Eco_Tours.html

Happy birding and hiking.