Hiking LOS PUEBLOS MANCOMUNADOS -"The People of the Clouds"

The indigenous people of this region in Oaxaca, the Zapotecos, traditionally have a strong bond with their natural environment. The “lord of the mountains”, a Zapotec deity known as Guzio, is said to live within the Sierra Norte, and to take care of the mountain people. Creating this ecotourism venture, thereby reducing the impacts of other forest dependent industries, is one way that the Zapotec people can take care of their

environment.
In the 1990’s, while visiting Oaxaca we decided to go for a day trip hiking and hired a guide up into the Sierra Norte. The village we rode to appeared to be the highest; it may have been San Antonio Cuajimolyas. At the time, the town representative mentioned an ecotourism project was just in the beginning stages providing protection and preservation for the nature system in a sustainable way. The Zapoteco people of the Sierra Norte live from their forests and mineral resources.

After returning years later to Oaxaca, it was great to see their project and dream had turned into a very successful excellent ecotourism program. The Zapotec terrain offers unique natural beauty and the local communities share a common cultural legacy of care and respect for their surroundings. Hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking tours in this beautiful region are between 1 and 5 days, leaving from Oaxaca City. We chose Expediciones Sierra Norte Oaxaca an ecotourism program connected to the seven villages for our hiking excursion. It is a very well run organization communicating daily to the villages in the ecoturism office. The villages themselves are mostly simple but picturesque places, and have unique relics of local history or culture to show off. The hikes are grade level one, two, and three mostly through rocky trails,

some being the old camino real roads and back dirt roads.

In the villages there is a strong sense of community, and in each town we visited, it was evident how residents had come together to advance the project. In Cuajimoloyas, my guide explained he was not paid for his work ( as all the guides), but that it was his community service for the town -something required of all the men. He said he would work for a year and then go back to raising corn and beans, another resident would take his place.
The Pueblo Mancomunados (Commonwealth of Villages) are eight remote Zapotec villages in the thickly forested highlands north of the Valle de Tlacolula in Oaxaca. For centuries in a unique form of cooperation, the villages have pooled the natural resources of their 290-sq-km-territory, which include extensive pine and oak forests.

The cabanas: Each of the towns has different lodging -- on arriving in each place, a local guide will show you where they are -- but in general, visitors choose between staying in a room with several bunk beds in the tourist lodge (aprox. $12 per person) or renting a private cabin that sleeps up to four people ($36 for the cabin). Rates are identical throughout the region. Both the private cabins and the lodges have bathrooms with hot water. We spent our nights in local community hostels as an alternative to camping in the forest.
Each town has one or two simple restaurants, either a storefront establishment or a resident's kitchen. On arrival, guides will let you know what your options are. Most meals, costing up tot $4 per person, consist of local staples, such as quesadillas; tortillas with beans, cheese and avocado; chicken, beef, or trout. A lot depends on how large the town. Restaurants sell cold soda and beer ($1). Each town also have a simple local store where you can buy bottled water, sodas, beer, and snacks.

The tours are designed to match your interests; offering a selection of routes from easy for families to large expeditions for the more demanding hikers and cyclists. Wherever you decide to adventure to, you will discover the beauty of a rare natural environment located in the middle of our modern world.
Sierra Norte has an altitude between 2000 and 3100 meters (6,560 and 10,170 feet) above the dry and hot central valleys, a range of unique and diverse ecosystems: seven of the nine types of vegetation existing in Mexico are here.

The villages we hiked were - day one 15.7 kms to Latuvi, day two 10.9 kms to La Nevera, day three 8.2 kms to Benito Juarez, day four 6.6 kms to Cuajimoloyas.
Expediciones Sierra Norte provided trained local guides for each day of our excursion, it was an extra cost but well worth it. Our hike began in Cuajimoloyas around 10am ending in Latuvi, hiking 15.7 kms or 9.8 miles. We rested only on one occasion for 20-minutes at Mirador Xi-Nudaa a lookout point situated at 3,100 meters above sea level considered sacred according to Zapotec legend. It rained on and off that day and by the time we arrived in Latuvi we were tired, our clothes damp, and it had turned colder. It was wonderful to see the cabanas very well kept. As soon as we purchased some firewood and after our guide got it going, we started feeling warm in our cozy cabana. At this time of year, the Sierra Norte can be become chilly. However, since a storm had hit the coastline rain came to this area and unfortunately, for us, it drizzled on the four days we hike. The guide mentioned the best time of the year to visit the Sierra Norte is in March, April, and May. Even so, hiking through peaceful the pine Forest Mountains and grassy meadows dotted with giant, prehistoric-looking cacti, alongside knowledgeable local guides who know all about the plants, wildlife, and ecology of the sierras was an awesome experience.

Cuajimoloyas holds a

mushroom festival around July or August at the beginning of the rainy season. After seeing all the varieties of mushroom along the hike I can understand why. Here a few that I found to be interesting.

Temazcal The last evening in our Mancomunados journey ended with a “Temazcal” in the village of Cuajimoloyas to relieve our aching and tired bodies.

Here is brief rundown on the Temazcal. Temazcal is an Aztec name for the actual hut that is used. The word temazcal comes from Nahuatl (nah-wah-tl: The Aztec language) words temaz, to bathe, and calli, house. Stone or adobe is the preferred materials of which to build the Temazcal. The door is quite small and low for the obvious reason of loss of heat as well as for the more symbolic role that it plays --re-entry into the womb.
The Temazcal is an ancient ritual steam bath. Many Mesoamerican cultures such as the Aztecs, and the Maya, would have steam baths to seek vision, blessings, purification, or to enter a trance state to commune with the gods and their ancestors. In ancient Mesoamerica, it was used as part of a curative ceremony thought to purify the body after exertion such as after a battle or a ceremonial ball game.
Once the fire has been burning long enough, water is put on the hot stones (sometimes with herbs) to create steam. The Temazcal is normally constructed from volcanic rock and cement. To produce the heat, volcanic stones are heated (volcanic stones are safe because they do not explode from the temperature) it is then placed in a pit in the Temazcal, located in the center or near a wall. The Temazcalera does the 'leafing', where the bather is gently beaten with herbal branches as she continues to throw hot water onto the hot rocks to create a blast of steam. After resting and sweating for sometime, I received the most relaxing and much needed deep tissue massage.

After our Temazcal we were off to eat freshly caught trout ordered by our first guide, Vidal. It was deliciously cooked to perfection and a great way to end this portion of our journey. I am so very thankful for my physical strength to have been able to hike through the Mancomunados and meet the very kind and hospitable Zapotecos “The Cloud People giving thanks to our five guides Vidal, Manuel, Salvador, Salomon, and Faustino. Another dream comes true. Explore - Dream - Discover

Back in Oaxaca for one night. Night life around the Zocalo.

The journey continues - next top Puerto Escondido on the Pacific Coast in Southern Oaxaca.

Dia de Muertos - Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, Mexico -

Where dead is only a transition not an end.

Origins of Dia de Muertos - a merging of cultures: In prehispanic times, the dead were buried close to family homes (sometimes in a tomb underneath the house) and there was great emphasis on maintaining ties with deceased ancestors, who were believed to continue to exist on a different plane. With the arrival of the Spaniards and Catholicism, All Souls' and All Saints' Day practices were incorporated into prehispanic beliefs and customs and Dia de Muertos came to be celebrated.

The belief behind Dia de Muertos practices is that spirits return to the earth for one day during the year to be with their families. It is said that the spirits of babies and children who have died (called angelitos, "little angels") arrive on October 31 at midnight, spend an entire day with their families, and then leave. Adults come the following day.

Oaxaca is the place to be when celebrating this awesome 4-day event, which officially begins October 31st. November 1, honors deceased children (Dia de Inocentes) and November 2 Dia de Muertos, in honor of adults. Loved ones gather in the cemeteries to decorate the graves making alters and offerings of items they enjoyed when they were alive. Celebrations begin well before the dates with firecrackers being set off throughout the day the day and night. Each evening parades erupt into the streets with massive 3-meter puppets the bands play while people dance or walk the streets of Oaxaca. Families surround the Zocalo during the day and in the evening listening to the government

sponsored music chairs set up for those who want to listen.

Dia de Muertos Ofrendas or Altars: The custom is to greet the spirits with offerings of food, things that the person enjoyed in life, and laid out on a Dia de Muertos ofrendas or altar as they are called in the family home. Many believe that the spirits consume the essence and the aroma of the foods offered. When the spirits depart, the living consumes the food and shares it with their family, friends, and neighbors.
Other items placed on the altar include sugar skulls, often with the person's name inscribed on the top, pan de muertos, a special bread made especially for the season, and cempasuchil (marigolds) which bloom at this time of year lend a special fragrance to the altar.

Sand tapestries: Known as tapetes de arena in Spanish, are common in Day of the Dead celebrations, but they're also part of Oaxacan mortuary customs. When a person dies, after the burial, a sand tapestry is made in their home. The tapestry depicts a religious image such as a saint the person who died had devotion then for nine nights, family members and friends gather to pray in the family home. On the ninth day, the tapestry is swept up and the sand is taken to the cemetery. The sand from the tapestry is poured onto the grave as part of a special ceremony.

Acala a pedestrian street in the city transforms into a magnificent display of sand sculptures depicting various religious and other famous skeleton figures. Ofrendras are filled with marigolds (the flower of death) overflow into the university and Zocalo as well.

More Traditions: Visiting a few of the small towns during the Dia de Muertos events is worth a special trip in the evening. We rode a taxi to San Gabriel de Etla where the residents performed a skit in front of a few chosen homes. This evening’s performance was about a husband who dies, the doctor tries to revive him, the town priest performs the last rites, and the “curandero”, chaman brings the husband back to life. Everyone is happy, the musicians begin to play and everyone starts dancing, at the same time shots of “Mezcal” are passed around for adults to indulge in. The procession dances continuing to the next house and the skit performed once again. The procession ends into the wee hours of the morning congregating in the town cemetery some staying until the new day visiting family or loved ones who have passed away.

Another town we visited on another night with a tour guide was Xoxocotlan. Villagers begin by purchasing the necessary supplies to decorate the ofrendas. The scene is timeless and colorful we find the cemetery lit with candles. Families bring chairs to the grave site of those they are visiting, a musician walks up to the family asking if they would like him to play a favorite song of their beloved, candles brightly light the tombs, and the fragrance of marigolds fills it way through the cemetery. I feel it is a nice way of dealing with the dead. It seems in Western culture when someone dies they may be swept under the rug and forgotten about. How many people actually visit graves? Maybe it would be better to do like the Mexicans and celebrate the people who have played such important roles in our lives. If you are really looking to enjoy the Mexican culture and traditions I encourage a visit to Oaxaca during the Dia de Muertos events.

Next Blog - I will write about hiking in the mountains of the Sierra Norte of the "Pueblos Mancomunados." Catch the trade wind..Explore-Dream-Discover

Traveling in Mexico

I will be writing about the many places visited in the three and a half weeks while traveling in the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas, Mexico. We begin our trip in the city of Oaxaca de Juarez.
Oaxaca the city
The city called Oaxaca de Juarez in the state of Oaxaca Mexico is a culturally beautiful, colorful, historic colonial city full of wonderful restaurants and many wonderful sites. The Mercado's, markets are not to be missed while in this glorious city. The Mercado de Artesanias is an indoor crafts market where you may see many of the vendors plying their crafts such as weaving or embroidering while selling, stamped tinware, embroidered textiles, tablecloths, and much more. The Mercado Juarez is another near the Zocalo, selling a diverse mixture of food, flowers, and clothes. Sometimes while walking through this maze of vendors one can easily lose someone and walk around in circles, it happened to me. Baskets and baskets of Chapulines which are grasshoppers are seasoned with red chilies a delicacy, different types of chilies, mole (will write more later) , and mezcal, are in abundance at this Mercado and a host of other items. They also have comedores, counter restaurants where fresh caldos and sopas are among a few of the menu items served.

In addition, there is the Central de Abastos an enormous main market about eight blocks outside of the Zocalo selling almost anything from Cd's to an overwhelming quantity of goodies. This market is large, a maze of vendor stalls and is a hive of activity on the weekends where the locals shop. It is worth a visit.

Sightseeing

Zocalo
A Zocalo in Mexico is the main square of a city. It is the place where people congregate for fun or arrange protest demonstrations. The Zocalo is traffic-free, and shaded by tall trees. During my visit, Oaxaca’s Zocalo was the main place for families and visitors to congregate whether sitting on the many benches available, dining, or sipping a beverage at one of the many restaurants with outdoor seating facing the Zocalo. These are the best seats to watch children and parents excitedly play together or couples strolling around the Zocalo arm in arm, vendors selling their crafts, reading a newspaper while having your shoes shined for 20 pesos. Of course, another attraction is listening to the strolling musicians. It is most the entertaining place to rest after shopping in the Mercado or a long walk.
Museums and Galleries
There are six museums worth visiting. The Palacio de Gobierno is an interactive museum about the history of Oaxaca and is free. There are many art museums and galleries within walking from each other. One is the Museo Rufino Tamayo a top class pre-historic art museum donated by Oaxaca's most famous artist who was Zapotec. His collection is in a 17-century building, focusing on the aesthetic qualities of ancient artifacts, and traces artistic developments in preconquest times.
Santo Domingo Church
The churches in the city are gorgeous such as the Iglesia de Santo Domingo the most splendid of Oaxaca’s churches. Built in 1570 and 1608 as part of the city’s Dominican monastery, the finest artisans from Puebla and elsewhere helped in its construction. Santo Domingo de Guzman (1172-1221), is the Spanish monk who founded the Dominican order. The Dominicans observed strict vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience, and in Mexico, they protected the indigenous people from other colonists’ excesses.

Crafts
The state of Oaxaca has the richest, most inventive folk-art scene in Mexico, and the city is its chief marketplace. You will find the highest-quality crafts mostly in the high-end stores, but prices are lower in the markets.
Oaxacan artisans remain very traditional – black strap and pedal looms, hand-turning pottery – but new products frequently appear in response to the big demand for Oaxacan crafts. I will write more on villages famous for their crafts located outside of the city.
Haggling
Renting a car for the last two weeks of the journey made it possible to visit areas that may have been difficult to visit otherwise. Renting a car is easy but the least expensive car to rent is a stick shift. By all means DO NOT take the first price haggle some and go to other car rental places. Do not fall for the gringo price. “Only” a rental car office located on 5 de Mayo has a good rate at 330 pesos a day. Another suggestion do not rent a car at the airport it is very expensive, more than 200 pesos higher. If you are on a budget, do the same at moderately priced hotels. Ask for a lower rate they may lower it 50-100 pesos something else let the receptionist, know you will pay in cash or the amount of days you plan on staying at the hotel may lower the rate, and especially during the low season. Understanding and speaking Spanish does help a lot when haggling and of course keep your cool. Of course when shopping in the craft markets or stores always ask for a lower price even at the airport.

Oaxaca the state
Oaxaca's towns and villages still retain the spirit of Old Mexico, with fiestas, music and laughter in the air. The name of the state comes from the Náhuatl (the language of the Aztecs) word Hauxyacac, which means "on the top of the guaje tree." The guaje tree is common throughout the state. Oaxaca de Juárez (wah-HAH-kah deh HWAH-rehs), named for the former president Benito Juárez (1806–1872).

The three Oaxacan valleys are subtropical, with breathtaking natural beauty, ecological diversity and rich cultural history. Trips into the mountains take you into world famous ecological zones. Oaxaca City is located at 5,500 feet above sea level. This high mountain tropical location creates a nearly perfect year round climate, with low humidity and cool nights. Oaxaca is located on the southern coast of Mexico and is the fifth-largest state with an area of 95,364 square kilometers (36,820 square miles), which is a little larger than the US state of Indiana. Oaxaca bordered on the north by the Mexican states of Puebla and Veracruz; on the east by the Mexican state of Chiapas; on the south by the Pacific Ocean; and on the west by the Mexican state of Guerrero. Oaxaca divides into 570 municipalities.

Indigenous people of Oaxaca
Sixteen different indigenous (native) groups have formally registered within the state. They include the Zapotec, Amuzgos, Chochos, Huaves, and others. There is also a group known as the Afromixtecas, who represent an ethnic mix of the Mixteca and the African slaves were brought to Mexico by the Spanish. Most citizens speak Spanish as their first language. About 37.2% of the population speaks indigenous languages. This is the second highest percentage in the country (after Yucatan). When I visited some areas in Oaxaca or even in the city Zapotec was spoken by the Zapotecos.
The climate is moderate all year. The average winter temperature is 17°c (63°f) in November, December, and January. From May to August, the average temperature is 22°c (72°f). The average rainfall in Oaxaca de Juárez is 69.5 centimeters (27.4 inches) per year. Rainfall for the entire state ranges from a minimum average of about 42.7 centimeters (16.8 inches) to a maximum average of about 375 centimeters (147 inches).

In general, Oaxaca has a mild weather during the year:

- Spring 25°C.

- Summer 22°C.

- Autumn 22°C.

- Winter 16°C.

Read More -

I will keep writing more about my travels through Oaxaca and Chiapas, such as the Day of the Dead an awesome four day event in Oaxaca and throughoput Mexico. I hope you continue reading and check back within the next few days for more tales. Explore-Discover-Dream..