Hiking The Trails Of Boquete

The small town of Boquete is one of Panama’s most precious scenic gems situated in the highlands with the picturesque Rio Caldera flowing along side the town. The attraction of this simple no frills town nestled in a valley are the countless rolling green hills a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and even for those who enjoy walking at a leisurely pace. Walking has been one of my favorite means of exercise and now I never seem to tire hiking in Boquete’s stunning natural jungle up in the highlands whether it be in the Horqueta area, Bajo Mono the rainforest area, or hiking in the lower hot areas of Caldera. Each of these areas has an inherent beauty, which continues to capture my interest on each hike. The early morning aromas of spice and pine permeate the air, while the morning dew rests on top of foliage and on the bed of fallen leaves, and listening to the trickling sounds of the river in the background. This is why I hike on the many, many trails of Boquete.
-Some trails have an abundance of different wild flowers, while others may show off a variety of orchids, or Bromeliads hanging high up on trees, Heliconias, Bird of Paradise, and sightings of various birds such as the Quetzale. The Quetzale is a beautiful bird, which you do not want to miss seeing in March and they can be seen on this trail. This is month when their breeding commences - the male, performs the courtship dance, calls out, loudly singing in order to attract females. This splendid bird is located in the cloud forests among lush vegetation, in very moist rainforest zones such as the Pipeline in Bajo Mono or the Quetzale Trail.

My love for walking began in Chicago; well it really began while jogging along Lake Michigan in my thirties, then in my late forties, I began a power walk routine, and bicycling along Chicago’s lakefront trails after moving and living in walking distance to the lake. In my fifties, I began walking 10,000 steps and eventually found that amount of steps not very challenging so I began to walk longer. In Chicago, not very many of us go walking for long distances in the winter. It is just way to cold for that type of activity so one begins not to exercise very much at all in winter. Instead, I would go to the health club just to stay fit. However, I have to say that after moving to Boquete I am in better shape and feel healthier than ever.

After living in Boquete for a short time, someone mentioned a walking group had formed; I joined it and began hiking the trails of Boquete. It took a while for my body to acclimate to the altitude – Chicago is flat land and Boquete well it is much higher.

The group meets every Saturday morning at 8:00am - hiking for about a two-hour sometimes less. I call our outings hikes because well we are in Boquete with some areas being over 1,400 meters or over 4000 feet above sea level with some trails higher. Most of the terrain requires hiking boots for safety since many trails are uneven, rocky, with deep gaps, jagged, and with loose gravel. For some a walking stick is a big plus it is a balancing tool – I take mine on every hike and love it. The greater part of trails are on an incline whether hiking up or down - the majority of us are accustomed to walking on level ground only, and lower altitude. As a result hiking in Boquete may be a challenge for some at first however; your body as mine has will acclimate to Boquete’s altitude if you stick with it.

In addition, a hiking group meets on Thursday starting at 8:30am frequently lasting longer about four to five hours and many times more difficult.

Hiking is a great way to exercise, definitely vigorous at times. Most of the trails are up in the highlands and while some are on back dirt roads where few cars are driven. All in all the landscapes, countryside, and views are splendid – well it is beautiful Boquete.
I did some research just to find out how many calories a person can burn hiking on rough terrain like the Peterson #1 Trail, Horqueta #1, Piedra India Trail, to name a few this is what I found out. It depends on the intensity (your speed, the terrain, the angle of incline, etc.), but one can burn anywhere from 1000 to 1600 calories in total. Furthermore participating in your favorite activity or sport burns calories. Use this activity website to help calculate how many calories your body burns when exercising. http://www.healthstatus.com/cgi-bin/calc/reload.pl
When you are exercising, the number of calories you burn depends upon your weight, the activity you are doing and the intensity level you exercise. Active people become slim and stay slim, because they know that burning calories allows them to eat a balanced normal diet, while enjoying physical activity.
A person with a higher fitness level will probably exercise at a faster rate and therefore burn more calories than someone who does not work as hard. Whatever exercise activity you choose, you should aim to do it for at least 30 minutes and it should leave you slightly breathless at completion. Above all, you should enjoy the exercise so that you will keep repeating it every day.

I decided to write about Boquete’s off the beaten path “hiking trails” to share them with my audience informing you there are many trails and dirt roads to explore in this wonderful area of Panama. If you want to join us one-day contact me, my email address is on my blog. Below is a list of the trails with a brief description of each.

The hiking trails below may prove to be difficult at first if you do not walk very much or are sedentary. Here are my suggestions to get acclimatize; start by walking around town and take short walks that are on a slight incline. Begin your walking routine for a ½-hour the first 4 days then add 15-minute each week until you can walk for an hour. Do15-minute stretches prior to walking and stretch afterward. Always take water, wear sunscreen, a hat, or cap. When hiking in rainforest areas wear long pants and be prepared when hiking up in the highlands to get your hiking boots wet. What's more hiking on some of the trails prepare to walk on narrow footbridges that are not steady, balancing on rocks to cross-streams or rivers, climb over hefty fallen trees or around boulders. It is a wonderful way to exercise and get back into shape.

Boquete Trails
1. River walk Loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour – easy for the active person, a challenge for the inactive. A great hike close to town and good views.
2. Jaramillo Centro Loop, 1 ½ to 2 hour. Same as number one but steeper in the beginning then a slight incline going back to town.
3. Cemetery to Volcancito Road, 1 ½ hours for the experienced always on an incline going up, is a challenge for the beginner.
4. Il Pianista, short hike to Senor Ifrain’s property 1 to 2 hours. Trail is a slight incline all the way; balancing on stones and walking across a log is required while crossing a shallow river. Has beautiful landscape and scenery.
5. Cerro Pianista continue to hike in the rain forest from Senor Ifrain’s place 3-4 hours. This is more for the experienced.
6. Volcancito to CEFATI 1 ½-2 hours. Road hike on asphalt in the beginning then on a dirt road, then walk down steep stairs going down to main highway.
7. Alto Jaramillo, hike is up and down on dirt road, gravel road 3 to 4 hours. This area has great views of ocean inlets and Boquete and is challenge for the beginner.
8. Past Alto Jaramillo, 4 hours. Begin hiking downward to Piedra India slight incline the entire way then on an incline. It is a long hike, never made it to Piedra India.
9. Buenos Aires- #1 Trail is along a river going up to Cerro Buenos Aires 3-4 hours. Great hike on a steady upward incline rough terrain. Definitely, for people who are fit and enjoy mountain climbing. There are many birds, great views, narrow rough terrain.
10. Buenos Aires-#2 trail is a dirt road passing cattle meadows 3 hours. Easier than number nine but still on an incline and rough terrain in some areas.
11. Cascada Escondido AKA Pipeline Trail this one is before the Quetzales Trail 3 hours. Steady incline but easy, trail is narrow, wonderful old growth, may hear Howler Monkeys early morning or mid afternoon and we have seen Quetzales in March. At the end of this trail is a beautiful waterfall but you must walk across some rocks to find it.
12. Quetzales Trail 4 hours but did not hike to Cerro Punta. Many birds, beautiful trees, a sheep farm, and the best trout farm along the way. This trail leads to Cerro Punta. Trail is not mark so take your chance when hiking to Cerro Punta.
13. Horqueta Trail 1, 4-5 hours Steep dirt road hike down into this valley then the trail changes upward to a steady incline. You may see and hear Howler Monkeys early, many birds, and orchids. Trail is along coffee fincas. Met the owner of one and he led us further up into hills. Great hike!
14. Horqueta Trail Loop 2, 2 ½ hours. Steadily down hill, loose rock, uneven trail until the main asphalt road then hike up to the dirt road to the top again. Take another dirt road to lengthen the hike.
15. La Estancia Loop number one 3 hours. Begin at la Estancia hike down onto dirt road and up onto asphalt road looping back to La Estancia.
16. La Estancia to Palmira Centro 4 hours. Begin at La Estancia walk down dirt road continues on dirt road to Palmira Centro hike back.
17. Las Brisas Boqueteneas Canyon 2 hours. Hiking down the canyon is rough terrain with loose rocks so walking stick is helpful. Then hike along the river, fairly easy, go swimming. This hike trail can take you to Potrerillos.
18. Potrerillos from Las Brisas canyon 4-5 hours. Hike from Las Brisas to Potrerillos and back along dirt roads very seldom used.
19. Caldera trail begins along river to new Hot Springs “Mi Abuela Termal” 4 to 5 hours. Hike on a dirt road it is an easy hike but is very lengthy and hot. At the end of hike, soak your body in the Caldera Hot Springs or go for a swim in the river.
20. Palo Alto Road to Canopy Tree and beyond into rainforest area 4-5. Start at the “Springs” walk on road which is at a slight incline all the way. Once you reach Canopy Tree walk across river on a footbridge. This is a wonderful rainforest hike; narrow trail on a steady upward incline, soggy, and slippery in areas walking is helpful.
I am looking at this list of trails and thinking WOW! I had not realized until this writing the many trails we have hiked since we began hiking. It certainly has been, without a doubt a most fantastic, terrific and exhilarating activity exploring new hiking trails and being able to share them with you. Hope you join us on Saturday and Thursday. Happy trails! Remember continue to Explore. Dream. Discover.

On The Rio Teribe, Visiting The Tjër, Naso Kingdom

A welcome "bienvenidos" sign on the side of a room and children playing on one of the many cayucas a canoe made by the men in the village.

Our home away from home for three nights. There are three rooms in this bungalow all
were very clean and comfortable. Our hosts were working on the water situation during our stay and so it was sponge baths or swim in the river. I have learned that staying in a Comarca may be challenge for some, but, if you want to know the culture first hand then it will prove to be a wonderful experience. 

Hiking up to a mountain top and came across a Brown Tree Frog.

While on our way to visit a village, I notice the river was so shallow that, we had to get off and be led onto an island of river rock bed as, we learned the canoe was touching the bottom. We waited on the other side where it was deeper got back into the canoe then continued on, our merry way.

Still standing today is the Weskco Lodge a reminder of a grim history as the former site of Pana-Jungla, a jungle-warfare survival school where elite Panamanian and foreign troops went through legendarily and difficult training. It was closed in 1990, but spooky remnants of the camp include a cage that once housed a black panther, the ruins of barracks, officer quarters, and a serpentarium that once held Panama’s deadliest snakes.

A few village homes we came across along our hike. All are made of wood with some thatched or metal roofs.

Wading through one of the many small rivers in the jungle trails.

A day hike into one of the Naso villages, along the Rio Teribe.

Geraldo, showing us a few shrimp, he hand caught on the river bank.



Making a bamboo raft with our guides.

Opps! Floating on the balsa raft on the Rio Teribe.

Will it sink? Let's hope not.

Success for the captain (center) and his mates!

Two Naso children waiting for us at the edge of Rio Teribe.



Bidding farewell "Hasta luego" to our new friends at
Weckso Lodge.

The Way....Camino de Santiago Compostela

  If you enjoy a leisurely hike or a long trek through the countryside, up and down valleys, and over not very steep mountains, then you should continue reading this article. I have dedicated this blog to the audience who enjoys an adventurous trekking through the countryside. After having read my previous blogs, you must get a sense, I really enjoy hiking and yes I do. There is feeling of gratification that I get being out in the open air, close to nature, and the need to stay fit. Hiking in the countryside for me is a very healthy experience; extremely liberating, good for the body and soul, and meditational.

I decided to visit Spain and trek one of the routes on the Camino de Santiago, “The Way of St. James” as some call this walk as, I chose the Camino Frances in Northern Spain. If you have never traveled in this area, my advice is to do it and go trekking!

As a child, relatives shared their experience after making this pilgrimage and remembering how fascinating it sounded. The Camino de Santiago, one of Spain’s most celebrated medieval trails have been in existence for thousands of years. For centuries and centuries, since the very beginning of Christendom, many pilgrims have followed Santiago’s (St. James's) footsteps across Spain and they continue to arrive in Santiago de Compostela. It never dawned on me that one day, I would be hiking this historic trail.



Cathedral in Astorga.

St. James is the patron saint of Spain. Thus, traditionally believed to be the first of the 12 apostles who went to this most north-western part of Spain, called by the Romans "Finis Terrae", "end of the world", to preach and convert people to Christianity. Santiago was taken prisoner after returning to Palestine by Herodes Agrippa and tortured to death.

Read more at Santiago de Compostela: History and Legends http:

http://www.red2000.com/spain/santiago/history.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James,_son_of_Zebedee

After a bit of research, and purchasing “Walking the Camino de Santiago” by Bethan Davies and Ben Cole, I found out there are twelve routes to Santiago de Compostela. The routes are; Camino Frances, Via de la Plata del Norte, Portugués de Finisterre, Camino Primitivo Tunnel Route, Ingles, Aragones, Le Puy Route de Madrid. Camino Frances is the one I chose being the main route of the Camino de Santiago stretching nearly 800 kilometers (500 miles) from St. Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz in France to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain.



I came across a few words in Spanish, which may come in handy while traveling as a pilgrim through whichever route you decide to trek.

Spanish lesson 101

Peregrino a pilgrim who walks the Camino de Santiago alone or with others

Albergue or refugio a pilgrim hostel

Hospitalero the person who runs the albergue

Casa rural a charming private rustic country home with rooms for lodging.

Credencial pilgrim passport issued at the beginning of journey. At the end of your trek in Santiago de Compostela you will receive a stamped certificate with your name though you must show your stamped peregrino credencial passport and have walked over 60 miles.

Sello, present your passport to the hospitalero, they will stamp it when lodging for the night.

"Buen camino", a phrase you will hear many times when passing people along the route.

I landed in Barcelona wasting a day as one of my luggage pieces had remained in Madrid, so an overnight stay in Barcelona was inevitable. The following morning my luggage had arrived at the airport, making a late afternoon arrival in Astorga. This is where, my journey would begin the following day.

Finding a place to lodge in Astorga would have been difficult, but as luck would have it, I managed to find or better yet the manager from the hostel Misioneras Apostolicas found me as, I was looking for a place to lodge. The stay in the Misioneras Apostolicas de La Caridad was clean, with private rooms and shared bathrooms. It was nine or ten in the evening as I settled in the hostel and now time to have a late dinner and began my search by walking around town in search of a restaurant. Late evenings in Astorga are quiet many stores and restaurants close early and much is not open past ten, but as luck would have it, I came across a restaurant. My hostel innkeepers had mentioned their doors would close around eleven so, I was reluctant to hang around chatting with the locals. A note of interest, many of the hostels on the camino close their doors by nine or eleven nightly.

After a good night sleep the following morning, my historic walk from Astorga to Santiago de Compostela began. I trekked the countryside, through large cities and hamlets. Tours are not for me, too costly, and very strict about their schedule. While trekking in this area of Spain, I found it to be safe. I walked at my own pace most of the time, peacefully became familiar with the countryside and the culture. For a woman my age, past sixty, and healthy, I advocate doing it - moreover, this is an affordable way to travel. You can trek the Camino de Santiago on a tight budget and stay at the many refugios/hostels the entire route as they charge 2 to 15 euros otherwise, there are many other accommodations to suit any budget. I chose not to stay in hostels. Make certain to present your Pilgrim Passport and have it stamped by the Hospitalero. Whatever way is decided if you love nature and enjoy hiking then this journey is for you. Some Spanish is helpful though.

Astorga is at 870m or 2,854ft, approximately 256.5km from Santiago de Compostela, and in the Province of Leon. The area has beautiful hiking trails, misty mountain passes, located in the land of the Maragatos, Spain’s ancient muleteers, who passed through Galicia. Sandwiched between these passes is the fertile El Bierzo valley, home to delicious wine, and the Templar castle at Ponferrada.

From Astorga, I hiked 12 miles to Rabanal del Camino which sits 3,773 feet high before tackling the mountains, staying at family run inn the El Tesin an albergue with a restaurant. On the second day, I hiked over 16 miles up to and through several hamlets the highest being the Cruz de Ferro at 4,938 ft. high. Cruz de Ferro is an iron cross piled high with stones, presenting an important camino ritual; many peregrinos bring a stone from home or find one along the trail and place it on the pile. Across Europe, Celts traditionally laid stones at peaks and passes like this one to calm the mountains gods and ask for safe passage through the mountains. Romans in the area continued the tradition, calling the stones murias after Mercury, their god of travellers. After leaving Cruz de Ferro trekking was the downward incline all the way into Molinaseca. But first a stop to see the tiny and remote hamlet of Manjarin and home to Tomas a very spiritual hospitalero.



Remote hamlet of Manjarin.

I arrived in Molinaseca in the afternoon to rest up for the night and found it to be a refreshing small town with the prettiest entrance of most of towns  I had passed along the way. Hiking down from the mountain pass, crossing the wide Rio Maruelo into an ancient arched stone bridge, the Puente de Peregrinos, the town was alive with activity. The bridges in Molinaseca helped in creating a control point along the Roman gold road. The wide Rio Maruelo flows alongside the town and in late afternoon’s families line the river walkway for a stroll, while, others swim in the river. The many outdoor cafes are filled with peregrinos eating a late afternoon snack. My stay was at the beautiful Casa Rural del Reloj, At one time the property belonged to the aristocratic Balboa family. The large common room floor is cobblestoned, at the center stands a very large double fireplace, wine is free for the taking, a delicious breakfast buffet in the morning, it is a very hospitable place to stay. The rooms are very spacious with very traditional furniture, off the main traffic area, making the Casa Rural a quiet and enjoyable place to stay. 



Most houses in Molinaseca use local slate, have thick walls to block the wind and steeply angled roofs to deflect snow. Many of the roofs are thatched with local broom and wooden beams.

Scallop shell and staff for sale

along the camino.

 

The picturesque town of
Villafranca del Bierzo.

My journey as a peregrino lasted 12 days, traveling over 160 miles (260 K) and hiking 12 to 21 miles (10 to 30K a day) a day, through 86 villages, most often over rocky terrain. My backpack weighed 15lbs, however the first few days it seemed to weigh 100lbs, my shoulders were sore by the end of the day, but as the days progressed, they adjusted to the weight. Most important when packing is to pack light. Your pack should not weigh more than 15 pounds. All that walking with a heavy pack makes your day a miserable one.

Early mornings are nippy so dressing in layers because after two hours of hiking, one begins to warm up. A hiking stave or two comes in handy throughout the daily trekking on the dirt rocky roads, as well as hiking up and down the hilly and mountainous countryside. It is great tool to use for balancing. several times a found myself unbalanced because of the backpack weight, the staves came in handy. While being on the trail, you will hear the clink, clink, clinking of peregrino staves hitting rocks while they hurriedly walk along the trails to their destination to either eat or rest their sore feet. Some towns have a Red Cross clinic for the injured peregrino who may have large blisters on their feet, dehydration or sprains. Wear good thick hiking boots and wool socks meant for hiking with the good liners. I added moleskin, an anti-chafe cream for my feet, and toe cushion inserts to my first-aid kit. Adding this saved, my feet from getting horrible blisters.

A hamlet on the way to Palas de Rei.

I found the food very good in every restaurant along the trail. A bottle of delicious red wine or a bottle of water (your choice) came with every three-course meal and after a full day of hiking, my reward was a big meal, and definitely wine. A big bowl of caldo gallego a country cabbage soup may be the starter, possibly chorizo, or Spanish ham with cheese. The main course normally consisted of chicken or beef served with bread.

There also are local taxis to take your luggage to the town, you will be lodging in, leaving you only the worry of getting through a 25-kilometre or less hike and relieving you from having to carry your pack but to just take the day's essentials as you comfortably walk up and down hills. I chose to carry my own pack for my own benefit and feel a sense of accomplishment that such a challenging journey brings.

An albergue in Rabanal del Camino

The Camino de Santiago is clearly marked by bright yellow arrows or the sign of the pilgrimage, a scallop shell carved into a stone. While walking along the camino, I began to think about those who have made this pilgrimage to SDC for centuries past and in doing so I was following ancient footsteps and found it to be truly moving and something to reflect on. The blog below I found to be interesting reading on the subject of the "scallop shell."

http://awarrener.blogspot.com/2008/05/symbol-of-camino-scallop-shell.html 



A palloza a distinctive form of rural achitecture
in the hamlet of O Cebriero. 

Another interesting and different hamlet perched on a high ridge, was the quaint hobbit hamlet of O'Cebreiro in Galicia - a hilly area with stunning pastoral views, although damp and chilly. O'Cebreiro is a time warp to an uncomplicated, almost prehistoric past, when people lived very close to nature in stone igloos with thatched roofs. The hamlet's round thatched-roofed pallozas are a distinctive form of rural architecture once found across Celtic lands from Africa to Scotland.

A mountain view from O Cebreiro.



One of the daily goals for most peregrinos is arriving in the town, they will be lodging before 1:00 pm.  Many begin their trek as early as five in morning, by following this routine, one is certain to find a room without difficulty since hostels fill up quickly as well as other budget accommodations; otherwise, a late start may mean frantically searching for a place to lodge late in the day. Some chose to make arrangements prior to their journey, I opted not making reservations preceding the trip choosing to take my chances. I always found a place to stay with only two two close calls.



Do not pass through Melide without visiting the pulperia. Pulperia Ezequiel is located on Melide's main street. People sit at long wooden benches and sample the house specialty: pulpo (octopus). Peregrinos line up to fill up on the delicious pulpo sprinkled with Spanish paprika and drizzled with olive oil. It is very tasty served with fresh bread to mop up the olive oil and juices. Stopping here prepares a peregrino for the next traverse of climbing up-and-down many small valleys in this part of Galicia.

Deciding to make the hiking distance shorter on my final day of the journey since; Santiago de Compostela was just 66 km away, I decided to hike 20 miles on day 10 to Arzúa. The town of Arzúa is a bit hazy in memory, I chose to stay in a beautifully restored casa rural owned by a teacher and his wife. I visited the tourist office in Arzúa they suggesting Casa Rei one of many casa rurales in the area. The home over 300 years old has been in the family many, many years and the couple have made the house into a beautiful bed and breakfast in a delightful calm setting.

On day eleven, it was a 24 mile hike to Villamaior from Arzúa the valleys are gentler and a lovely walk although very hot. On day 12 it would be only 3 miles to SDC and a treat to only walk for such a short distance.

Arriving in Santiago de Compostela was an awesome experience, knowing that my journey on the Camino Frances had finally ended as, I crossed the main wooden bridge into the city. I felt really honored and great to have been able to trek the countryside in this part of Spain.  



Down in the crypt lies

 the casket of St. James.

Santiago de Compostela is a part of the province of Galicia as well as the cultural and administrative center in this region. The city is renowned for being the final destination of Camino de Santiago or the Way of Saint James, the celebrated medieval route of pilgrims. The city was named after the Apostle Saint James ("Santiago,") who was and still buried in the Santiago Cathedral. Considered by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and a popular destination from people all over the world, primarily because of its fantastic monuments. Browse through this website for further information about Santiago de Compostela and the popular traditions throughout the year.

http://www.caminosantiagodecompostela.com/

http://www.aboutsantiagodecompostela.com/1967populartraditionsmusicfestivals.asp


I checked into the hotel, freshened up, then strolled around the city to find the Oficina del Peregrino where the compostela is received (a certificate) the final proof that, I have completed the pilgrimage. Every peregrino must show their passport and answer a few questions. I became a fully qualified peregrino after standing in line for 45 minutes then, I was off to see the star of the city the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Everyday at noon a pilgrim’s mass is held and the ceremony may culminate with the swinging of the botafumeiro (smoke belcher), a massive silver incense burner said to be the largest in the Catholic world. It takes eight men in a team called tiraboleiros to tie the knots and get the massive silver apparatus swinging across the cathedral an overwhelming exhibition. The botafumeiro dates back to 1851, after the original was stolen by Napoleon’s troops when the cathedral was looted.

The construction of the cathedral began in 1075 and completed in 1211, the first church built by Alfonso 111 the Greater in 899, was destroyed by Amanzor’s Moorish army in 997. It’s said the bones of St, James and two of his disciples remain in a casket in the crypt. The cathedral is so massive and beautiful but enough said, my photos tell the rest.

I enjoyed a wonderful journey in Spain, along the historic Camino Frances and hope, you can do the same one day.                                       

                                                 Continue to Explore - Dream – Discover.

Cathedral de Santiago

 

Eight tirabolieros swing the botafumeiro.

San Marcos, Monte de Gozo.



 

Here, I am in Ponferrada in front of
the Castillo de los Templarios.