Los Quetzales Trail

Los Quetzales station to begin a day of hiking.

Since arriving in Boquete, I have heard about people hiking up the Volcán Barú or the Los Quetzales Trail. Volcán Barú is the tallest mountain in Panama and 3,474 meters (11,398 ft) high. A dormant volcano but potentially active it is surrounded by a fertile area of cool highlands drained by the Chiriqui and Caldera rivers. The towns of Volcán and Cerro Punta are on its western side, while Boquete is on the eastern flank. The last major eruption of the volcano was about 500 AD. There are reports and some evidence of a minor eruption around 1550 AD. However, in 2006, an earthquake swarm occurred underneath the mountain, raising fears that it could erupt sometime in the future with explosive force (http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2007/1401); the volcano has collapsed in the past. Due to its height and Panama's relatively short width; it is possible to see both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from Volcán Barú's peak on a clear day. The occasional fall of snow has been reported on the summit, where the minimal temperature can be below 0°C (32°F) and the formation of frost is frequent during the dry season.

The Quetzales Trail is another section in the Volcán Barú National Park. It can be a less strenuous hike than the one leading up to it, the Volcan Baru Trail. Some hikers begin their hike in Cerro Punta because it is a downward trail ending in the Boquete Highlands. Some say it is easier than walking up begin the trail in Boquete, the Bajo Mono area ending up in the Cerro Punta trail of the Los Quetzales. Whether one chooses to trek up or down the Los Quetzales Trail it be may be a challenge.

Since my leg is still in the healing stage and healing very, very quickly going on this hike with my two friends was out of the question. I would have loved to experience this hike – but it will happen sometime in the future.

Our friend Remi has been trying to organize a group to hike up to the Volcan Baru but without any luck in doing so - for now he has settled on a Los Quetzales Trail trek. People who love a challenge as Remi does and as other avid hikers cannot pass up the hike to the Volcan Baru, the hard trail to Bocas del Toro, or the Los Quetzales Trail these are just a few trails to explore. In Panama, many more trails exist throughout the country for the avid trekker as well as trails for the not so experienced trekker.

We drove our two friends Remi Bodet and Gordon Chu to Cerro Punta it was a beautiful sunny Saturday morning – one could not have picked a most perfect day to go hiking on the Quetzales mountain trail. While driving to our destination we passed the towns of Volcan and Bambito the countryside is wonderfully picturesque with many different tints of green dotting the hillsides and mountains. Livestock graze through green pastures, this is where the majority of the produce is grown for the rest of Panama. Even so, it still boasts a most colorful countryside and natural habitat.

At ten o’clock in the morning we left our friends at the entrance to the Los Quetzales Trail in Cerro Punta bidding both a safe hike and would see them in the Boquete Highlands at the entrance of the trail around four that afternoon. Attempting to call both before leaving Cerro Punta and Volcan making sure all was well it turned out to be fruitless. Cell phone service at the location is obsolete.

For this posting Gordon Chu took the majority of the photos and a few by Remi Bodet - thank you both for letting me use them.

We had heard several versions of the Los Quetzales Trail that one it was in good condition the other being it was very rough, slippery, and not in very good condition since the storm some months back had washed out parts of the trail. In spite of all the talk, these two men persevered. I must mention when this hike was in the planning stages about five to six people going but some decided not to take a chance.

As the four o’clock hour approached, Remi and Gordon made it back sooner then we had expected and we caught up with the two along the road. Walking back to Boquete town is a long walk. Bus service is very limited forget about taxi service. They were glad to see us, Gordon waving his arms as we approached and Remi up the road walking as fast as he could. Both were wet from the Bararenque (a very light misty rain) it had just started and very common up in the highlands. Both men describe the trail as “very rough” in some areas. On a scale of one to ten, I asked how they would rate it both agreed a seven. Some trails were “very narrow”, while the series of staircases scale the steepest terrains, and present the greatest obstacles, there are large boulders to climb over or around. Ongoing exposure to moisture has rotted wood, and steps were frequently missing. The terrain varied but always-verdant forest all around, in a few places interspersed by small brooks and streams. They mentioned it as an amazing walk, charged with natural energy, and dotted with a few incredible lookout points that take in sweeping panoramas of the beauty of the forested hills. Las Rocas marks the trail's highest elevation with a clearing that includes a shelter and picnic grounds. A side-path continues to a viewing platform with limited vistas. Sweeping panoramas are better from a smaller, unnamed opening east along the trail at a lower elevation.

Along their trek, they met three families out for a day of hiking on the same trail, one family was from France, another from China, and a group from Panama.

The whole hike will take 4-5 hours and is somewhere between 10 and 12 kilometers; reports vary. Whoever is eager for a rewarding challenge will not want to miss this Central American gem even if it takes all day at a snail's pace. Wearing long pants is a good thing to do - the trail hemmed with ground-level growth and while briars were not a problem, there are specimens, which inflame itching upon contact. Attempting this hike during the rainy season would be next to impossible. However, speculating what the environs would transpire deluged in clouds and wandering through thick fog would only enhance mystique; the gorillas in the mist ambience further haunted by bellowing howler monkeys. Spotting quetzals is the wildlife expectation that few rarely find. On this hike, my friends mentioned of not seeing any but did hear the magnificent sounds of the Quetzal bird - nonetheless birds were in most abundance.

Happy! Happy!

Four hours later the end of the trek!

Bravo to you both.

Explore! Discover! Dream!

Feria de Oquideas in Boquete

Today is the last day of the wonderful Orchid Fair in Boquete this event begins in the middle of April lasting four days. What is so fantastic about the Feria de Orquideas it takes place during Semana Santa. Many tourists from outside Panama including Panamanians visit Boquete at this time. The town is swarming with visitors and traffic can be slower than usual.

Boquete known as the capital of flowers many of Panama’s beautiful flowers and orchids are gown in this area. The tropical weather it is perfect for growing orchids due to the highlands where the air is moist and the light bajarenque fuels the growth of these beautiful exotic flowers. This fair is devoted to highlighting the most beautiful available in Boquete. All Orchids purchased are reasonably priced along with other lovely flowers.

In the center of the center of the Feria is arguably the jewel in the Feria’s crown – the display of the local orchid society. These blooms are truly as exotic and exquisite as the orchid name implies and ribbons are given to very best orchid.

Our gardener, Alcibiades has a Finca - he and his wife grow many orchids and sell them not only at Feria de Flores, Feria de Orquideas but as well at other nearby Ferias. The day we visited the fair their orchid stall was full of customers purchasing their beautiful orchids. We wish them many successful days in their orchid business.

When you plan a visit to Boquete, I suggest you visit during Semana Santa and go to the Orchid Festival among others places to see. Check dates for the Orchid Festival prior to your visit.

Sigue Gozando Su Vida! Explore, Discover, Dream!

Carnaval and Semana Santa

Back in February, Panama celebrated the coming of Lent about one week before with a

"Carnaval" Carnival . Panama’s typical Carnaval is not very exciting at least to me. Although most people identify Panama with the canal, it is the colorful interior of the country that defines Panamanian roots and where people return in droves to celebrate Carnaval. It so hot in Panama that one does not mind being hosed down with water in the daytime as tanker-sized trucks spray the screaming crowds in the equatorial heat. In the evenings, there are fireworks, parades, and outdoor dance clubs. We went to the Carnaval in Dolega - a half hour drive from Boquete -there was not much going on because the party ended early Sunday afternoon, unfortunately there was not much to see. We did not see games or rides for children, food stands, or any place to sit down.

I had read articles and heard in other towns it is pretty much the same thing but in Las Tablas in the Province of Veragua it is the place to be for Carnaval in Panama. The queen is chosen by how elaborate her float - the gaudier the better. It is based on material purchases made by her sponsors, some of these items could be luxurious car, clothes, etc.

The height of these festivities take place on Carnaval Tuesday ‐ Queens Day ‐ and ends in the early hours of Ash Wednesday with a ritual known as "El Entierro de la Sardina" ‐ a Burial of the Sardine. This ritual originated in the mid 19th century by students from Madrid who formed a funeral cortège (presentation) presided by a sardine symbolizing the start of fasting and abstinence on Ash Wednesday. In Trinidad and Tobago however, all the festivities end at midnight in preparation for Ash Wednesday’s religious services.

Easter Week or Holy Week just ended in Panama it is a very serious religious holiday here, known as “Semana Santa.” It is unlike Easter in the United States, Canada, or Europe, which is family oriented with Easter eggs, bunnies, etc.

Semana Santa is one of the most important weeks of the year in Panama. Traditionally many are in a very reflective somber mood, with events and processions take place at churches throughout the country. Since the closing of some businesses begin on Holy Thursday, it is also the beginning of a long holiday weekend. One cannot purchase liquor anywhere in Panama from Wednesday midnight until Saturday or midnight Sunday in some towns. There is also very little TV, radio, loud music is illegal, drinking in public is not permitted, loud disco music is not tolerated during this period additionally many of the bars and dance clubs are closed.

In Boquete as throughout Panama “Semana Santa” begins with Palm Sunday and a weeklong of events. In the Boquete the town’s only Catholic Church, St. John the Baptist may events taking place each day with early morning and early evening services. Since I am still in a cast and walking with the use of my trusty crutches I still cannot walk a great distance and would have loved to walked in the processions. Even though the doctor said, I can now walk on my healing foot “poco a poco” I decided it would not be a “good thing” to do.

This past Saturday while driving around town I noticed alters on the side of front doors on some homes. Then I remembered reading processions of the Stations of the Cross would take place Saturday evening and they were taking part of the procession. Some stations were small while others very large and beautifully decorated with flowers. Unfortunately, I did miss this procession but was able to take a few good photos.

As I post this article, the Boquete “Feria de Orquideas” (Orchid Festival) is taking place. I will be posting this event as well.

“Poco a Poco”

Easter in Panama

Saturday Night Boxing In Boquete

This past Saturday, Boquete was having boxing matches. I haven’t been to a boxing match in eons and decided to go with a few male friends including my significant other. The men in this group had never seen a live boxing match and I found it surprisingly humorous. Just now, I’m thinking you know of all the things you may have never thought of doing in the past you will probably eventually do it. These guys came to Panama and saw a live boxing match for the first time, which they may have never done otherwise.
I remember my dad always watching boxing matches at home on the TV when I was a child. It was a routine event with him at least once a week. My dad was athletic having developed an interest in boxing in his teens at school and was on the football team as well. He was a very fit man at one time.

The boxing match titled "En Pie De Guerra" was held at Los Naranjos Gym in Boquete, it is a relatively new gym, having outdoor field as well for children and adult baseball games. This also is the same field that the “Festival of Kites” took place.
As I found out that evening boxing in Boquete is a family affair. During the boxing bouts one little girl sitting behind us with her parents starting yelling out "hit him" mimicking the adults.
A brother and sister were at ring side cheering for thier father who was in the ring boxing. Still cheering for their even as their father got hit with several jabs cutting the side of his face. But his children kept on supporting him with thier cheers. I have a photo here of the kids.

The doors opened before seven o’clock the ticket mentioning it was due to start at that time. However, as some people always do forget events do not start on time and the boxing would be no different thinking that it would start at seven o’clock, is purely an illusion on their part. I keep on having to remind some most Latino cultures being on time is not revered or expected. However, in order to get good sits we arrive

early, our seats were second row up front and good enough to take some photos watching the sweat knocked off some of the boxers while being jabbed. The match finally started at eight and ended past midnight. There were a total of eight matches and it was definitely a fun evening.

The boxers were Welterweight at 147-lbs./66.7 kg, Featherweight at 126-lbs. /57.2kg, and Light Fly-Weight at 108-lbs./49.0 kg. The total boxing rounds were based on the experience of the boxers and it was a good thing because some of the young men had very little maneuvering boxing skills. I was very impressed noticing a doctor present close to the ring that night. There were a few bleeders and some bruised eyes, no knockouts though, and when more clinching than hitting took place, the crowd would jeer loudly. In one match, two of boxers did not like each other and started bashing their heads until the ref stopped them. All bouts were between 4 to 8 rounds. Boxing cannot be without the models prancing about and on that evening they were in their skimpy blue outfits strutting around the ring carrying a sign depicting the round while the men in the audience whistled and carried on.

All of the opponent boxers were either from the Capital of Panama, Nicaragua, or Guatemala the others were home boys from the Chiriqui Province. So who received the most cheers? You guessed it the Chiriqui boxer and the majority of them won.

Chiricanos are very proud of their Province maybe it is because the Chiriqui Province supplies 50% of all the fruits and vegetables for all of Panama. On the other hand, Chiricanos are known for their beautiful horses, good horsemanship and just possibly, it’s a result of the large and successful coffee plantations strewn throughout the countryside. Some of the best coffee in the world is grown in Boquete. The people of this wonderful province boasts beautiful black volcanic soil think there is no better place in the world. Therefore, Chiricanos have a lot to be proud of. When a Panamanian says he is from Chiriqui, he says it with pride.

Explore, Dream, and Discover!

Parque Nacional Isla de Coiba, Panama

More of my photos from this trip are on Jerechica-in-Boquete, Picassa Album.

I had heard about Parque Nacional Isla de Coiba the largest island consisting of 50,314 hectares or 124,320 acres of mostly virgin tropical rainforest. Located approximately 30 miles off the Panamanian cost, Isla de Coiba is remote and relatively undeveloped with over 80% of its natural habitat intact. It is hilly at its center with a number of rivers draining into the ocean. The largest of the rivers is Rio Negro or Black River. The jungles of Isla de Coiba are home to howler monkeys, scarlet macaws, and crested eagles.

For bird watchers, Isla de Coiba offers 97 of the 147 species of birds found in Parque Nacional de Isla Coiba. It is a refuge for Crested Eagles and Scarlet Macaws, birds who have virtually disappeared from the rest of the Republic of Panama. The island also offers 20 endemic birds’ species including the Coiba Spinetail.

We had been planning a trip to Isla de Coiba and finally we would be able to discover this beautiful island just six hours south of Boquete. One of the organizers from our Sunday trekks planned the Parque Nacional Isla de Coiba trip.

I will backtrack a bit now and then continue below on our Isla de Coiba trip. About two weeks ago, I fractured my Fibia it is the thin narrow long bone connected from the ankle to the knee. The Sunday, when this happened we went on a lovely walk in Finca Lerida beautiful hiking trails, a luscious area located in the highlands of Boquete. We went with a friend and his family visiting from France. Not wearing the right shoes may have attributed to the accident but I thought my Keens (very good shoes but do not support the ankles) would do fine since they got me through the other hikes that were much more difficult. Anyway, I was not concentrating on the path but instead was listening intently to the TMI my walking partner was describing about her sad life and BINGO I slipped into a dirt crevice and not being to stop the fall slide twisting my ankle. I heard two pops and knew what had happened. I hobbled back to the main road as best I could which seemed to take forever and yes very painful but I could still walk luckily. We decided to have lunch because when a person is hungry the doctor can wait. After having a very delightful lunch in Finca Lerida’s restaurant we headed back to Boquete and to the Clinca Integral de la Salud where there they decided an x-ray was necessary and a specialist.

The cast comes off in about two weeks and I will the happiest person alive on that day…hippie! Next week I can walk adding some pressure onto the healing ankle. Yeah!

Now back to our trip! Five of us from Boquete who would be taking the trip to Isla de Coiba decided to leave around nine Friday morning allowing us to arrive in Santiago, Veraguas around 12:30pm so we could have a relaxing day prior to the early Saturday morning start and have a good night rest. We stayed at the Rancho Hacienda a pleasant hotel with a swimming pool, decent food, and the price was just right with the pencionado discount through a friend with whom we shared a room.

The following day began with a 3:00am wake up call. YIKES! I know excessively early for you right! As it turned out, we could have stayed in bed for another hour fore the bus arrived an hour later. The first stop was Santiago’s icehouse to load up the ice chest surprisingly enough the place was busy even at 5:00am. Our second stop to board the boat in Puerto Muntis in the Gulf of Montijo entered the small town of Puerto Muntis it reminded me of coastal towns in Europe with narrow windy roads, houses close to the walk and paint washed casitas where their colors were fading. Since having to walk around on crutches, it was difficult getting around at the end of our trip.

That morning we enjoyed a typical Panamanian breakfast consisting of beef in a flavorful red sauce, three Panamanian tortillas, and coffee. The ride to the island was breath taking with the ocean breeze salting my lips, the salty ocean breeze flowing through my hair, and the pounding of the boat when hitting the waves. I found it all to be exhilarating and intoxicating then three hours later, we landed on Isla de Coiba National Park seeing along the way shark.

Professor Alberto Diaz’fee was fifty dollars each for the day and half trip to the Parque Nacional Isla de Coiba, seven dollar permit fee for each of us, and fifty more each to ANAM (Autoridad Nacional del Ambiente). This covered a full schedule, including two breakfasts, two lunches, one dinner, lodging, trips to nearby islands such as Rancheria, Granito de Oro, among others, snorkeling (bring your own gear), short walking hikes, and a visit to the Isla de Coiba’s prison more on this later. Our crew on this trip was our guide Professor Alberto Diaz, the captain, and Gladys the cook.

After landing on Isla de Coiba and unloading the boat, we got back on our first stop being Panama’s version of Devil’s Island. From 1919 to 2004, the penal colony on Isla de Coiba was home to the country’s most dangerous criminals as well as home to many who found themselves on the wrong side of the political struggle. At its peak, the Coiba Island Prison housed 3000 inmates in about 30 camps spread around the islands.

“Los Desaparecidos” was the name given to the hundreds or even thousands who disappeared in Panama under dictators Omar Torrijos and Manuel Noriega, never to be seen again. Some were tortured in this prison a very sad situation for many family members. It is believed that many of these unfortunate individuals either ended up in unmarked graves near the Coiba’s penal colony or to have been dismembered and fed to the abundant shark population in its surrounding waters.

After the fall of the dictatorship, Coiba resumed its role as a criminal prison camp rather than political prison. In its final days, prisoners were the run of the mill thieves, murders and rapists serving their debt to society by farming and ranching the island to provide for their own existence.

The prison is now closed. The prisoners have relocated to other facilities and anything of value removed from the site. Jungle and the marine air are slowly reclaiming the remaining structure. Its crumbling buildings and simply marked graves serve as the only memorial to Coiba’s dark history.

The fear of the prison and its inhabitants inadvertently resulted in preservation of the largest untouched rain forests in the Americas. Because of the deterrent of the penal colony, about 80% of the islands forest remains virgin and unmolested. A true positive aspect in one of man’s most horrible moments. Of course, with the prison gone and the supervising staff woefully under funded, Coiba’s next challenge is fending off poachers preying on the abundant wildlife of the park.

A sad situation also arising in this aftermath is the once domestic animals such as; cattle, buffalo, horses etc, who today roam the island in search of food eating whatever they can, many undernourished end up dying of starvation. The government of Panama does not quite get it! As of today, they still have not figured out and have not come to a logical decision as what to do with the animals whether to sell or kill these unfortunate creatures. And so the animals are left to forge on their own.

Isla de Coiba is not swarming with tourists making it a fantastic getaway. If you do mind a rustic getaway in the of middle nowhere this is place for you! I urge to visit Parque Nacional Isla de Coiba in Panama. Even more, when taking short trips to some of the other islands I got the feeling as though it we were on our own private island.

The second stop on the island a small islet off the northeastern coast of Isla Coiba named Granito de Oro has emerged as one of the most popular stops for visitors interested in snorkeling and considered one of the pristine beaches in the world. Granito de Oro offers the casual snorkeler a diversity and volume of marine life that many avid scuba divers spend their lives trying to see. It is the aquarium of Coiba, offering easy access to eels, turtles, and large schools of fish. The waters surrounding Granito de Oro many have called one of the top 10 diving destinations in the world.

Since I was unable to snorkel, some described the fish as beautiful with an array of rainbow of colors, some even saw shark and even spotted shark. Nonetheless, my enjoyment was observing the natural beauty of Granito de Oro with its gold colored sand, the beautiful clear turquoise water, the clean air, and taking photos of my friends exploring this island, snorkeling, exploring coves, enjoying the glory on this tranquil island, smiling happily and at peace with nature.

If you plan an overnight visit to Parque Nacional Isle de Coiba take a small traveling pillow (optional) , bug juice, sunscreen, soap, drinking water, and towel. We were advised to bring sheets but sheets were on the beds and do not take many clothes. The cabins are rustic with four beds in each room, shower, sink, toilet, and air conditioner. There is no hot water but who needs hot water especially with the weather being so warm.

One needs to have a fishing license to fish in this area, if you fish without a license be ready to pay a heavy fine. When snorkeling or scuba diving visitors taking of shellfish or other ocean creatures is not permitted, Parque Nacional de Isle Coiba is a protected ecological park.

Our guide Professor Diaz speaks only Spanish but I hear there is guide who does this trip in English and who also has a larger boat accommodating twenty people. I do have his name but must do more research and call him. If you are interested in having, his name and rate, make a comment on my blog or email me.

This trip was a definite adventure and one I will not forget soon. Being in a cast while boarding and exiting the boat was quite a challenge for all. Everyone wondered how I would getting in and out of the boat. It was so funny sometimes but exhausting sometimes such as walking with crutches in wet sand. My dear friend Remi decided to give me a piggyback ride to and from the boat, while Edward (Lane) and the professor made a chair bracing their arms while I sat on their arms feeling like Cleopatra but an anxious one. I am very happy to have gone on this voyage, casting away catching the trade winds….to explore, dream and discover.

I would like to take this time to thank everyone for their help, support, and humor on this trip. Nonetheless, I need to apologize for my bitchiness at times especially at the end of the trip but hey, I will let you in on a little secret - the woman loses her patience every once in while. Ha, Ha! Thanks again to all.

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.~ Mark Twain